KATJA MANDALA CUSHION

Pattern available on my Ravelry Sore at: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/katja-mandala-cushion

This is personally one of my favourites. This design went a looooong way….many trips to the Eastern Cape and back, in a box in a container drifting the ocean to the Netherlands. It took me a while to remember in which book and in which box this long-forgottten pattern was hiding. And finally… it emerged one day in a scrap book I almost threw away. It was like un wrapping a present to crochet it all over again, making sense from random car scribbles in different colour pens and different hand writing styles (my handwriting is never the same…does it mean something?).

This is really an exciting pattern with never a dull round as the use of different colours let an artwork emerges time and again. You actually want to stop after each round but are also enticed to go to the next. My mom did this pattern in another colour combination, which looks just as beautiful.

I really hope that some of you try this pattern and show your colour combinations. It can get pretty exciting!

Happy crochet week!

Crochaic Shoulder Bag

Pattern available on my Ravelry Store: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crochaic-shoulder-bag

Happy sunny days in The Netherlands call for a happy colourful bag. If you are wondering about the title of this project, ‘crochaic’ is my own neologism for crochet + mosaic – a combination of mosaic and surface crochet. I did a couple of workshops in South Africa back in 2019 with this type of technique and those who attended these workshops will remember that it took a little bit of concentration initially. These projects worked in rows without loose ends at the ends and without front loops to work your stitches in. It created a dense surface with the endless design possibilities. Yet it took a lot of focus and attention!

I promised everyone back then that I will design a bag that will work in rounds and use the front loops like most of the mosaic and surface crochet patterns but with my own flair!

Finally the workshop patterns are combined into a nice large size shoulder bag – perfect for the beach or shopping.

I have used my Vinnis Colours Nikkim stash that I got as a present from Vinni before we left South Africa together with a 3 mm crochet hook. The yarn works wonderfully as it creates a dense textured surface. Of course any Cotton DK yarn will do as long as you keep your work tight and not too loose. Furthermore I lined the bag with a fabric bag, but I also know that a lot of people refuse to do sewing. I tried to explain the sewing part as clearly as possible and hopefully it will be easy enough for anybody to try. Otherwise you can keep your bag as it is because it is still very sturdy and strong.

Here are some information on the bag:

Difficulty level: Intermediate to Advanced

Size:  43 cm deep and 35 cm wide depending on your tension.

What you need: 

·     Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK (50 g balls): 3 balls Plum, 2 balls each Raspberry and Stone, 1 ball each Purple Pink, Old Gold and Green Slate

• 3 mm crochet hook
• Embroidery needle
• 2 key rings (4 cm in diameter)
• 50 cm cotton fabric for lining

·     Sewing machine and basic sewing accessories

I sincerely hope that you enjoy the pattern and please show your bags and colour combinations!

Dizzy Delft

It is with great happiness that after almost a year and a half, I have started to do some crochet designing again. Luckily I can do it at my own pace and whenever I feel like it and just for fun! I have started many projects since I moved to The Netherlands, but I was not very motivated to finish any and with Covid-19 and settling in a new country, my focus was mostly homeschooling and to get my kids sorted with schoolwork and adaptation to a new culture.

The Netherlands with all its Delft Art inspired me to make at least one Delft-inspired crochet design to remind me of my journey so far and all the ‘dizziness’ I experienced with mastering a new language, culture, systems etc.

Today I published my new throw pattern, Dizzy Delft, on my Ravelry Store: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dizzy-delft

It is also a tribute to my previous crochet life in South Africa – I have played with motifs and patterns in order to create dizzy-like patterns. The throw was done in Scheepjes Catona, which is obviously a wonderful and accessible choice here in The Netherlands and lovely to work with. Maybe this is also a pattern that inspires you and it will also be interesting to see it in other colours and yarn!

Happy crochet!

Dizzy Delft: photo taken at Hargen, North-Holland

New Patterns on Ravelry

Hi everyone!

I am back from an extremely long silence and I know that most of you have wondered if I had jumped from earth and disappeared. The reason for my absence were all the logistical and administrative tasks that comes with immigration. I moved from South Africa to the Netherlands in July 2019 and decided to take a break from everything that slowly devoured my inner peace – deadly deadlines, public pressure and crochet mania – simply anything that boxed me in for the past 6 years. It was not all bad, but after 5 years I started to get tired and longed for creative freedom. I was lucky in a sense to have my passion as a work, but pressure can kill all the passion.

So, I wanted to enjoy freedom, creativity, my new home and country and to ensure that my kids cope with their new challenges. Luckily kids adapt so easily! For the past couple of months I felt no creative juice. It was a big black hole full of nothingness. I felt so empty and tired. You are in a daily survival mode, trying to cope with language, culture and ‘where to buy what’ – most frustrating!!!!!! But I think I needed the brakes to slow me down, put my life in perspective and to accept the fact that everything and every change needs time. I woke up wondering what day it is, what month and what season. Your whole calendar is turned upside down. You are waiting for the summer  just to get a winter slap!

Step by step you slowly ease in, start to breathe and  make your new normal as normal as possible. I  can feel that I start to dream again and that I am longing for personal growth and a fresh start. And now with all the lock-downs, introspective time is superfluous. Of course me-time is limited and your silent aura gone due to homeschooling and a husband that works from home, but this also shall pass.

I hope that I can share  my personal journey with you from now on…Please look at my Instagram profile karen_adendorff to experience the beauty of the Netherlands. In the meantime, I have designed three crochet patterns that are available on Ravelry. Enjoy it!

The Archinos Mandala

Art deco Cushion

And Flowery pot mats

Chat to you soon!

Karen

The last workshops for 2019

Hi, to all my lovely crochet friends!

It has been a hectic, but an exhilarating past couple of weeks and also a life-changing one as well. We are moving to the Netherlands and it has been lately very chaotic between all the documentation, house selling and boxes. How do you clear 24 years of hoarding?

But through all of this, I have to say goodbye to many people, whom I know and those I do not know, all my followers and all the lovely people that crossed my path and enriched my life! I am blessed that you were a part of my life and I will treasure all the great moments. Thank you.

This implies that my magazine work as well as my workshops will come to and end unfortunately. I updated the workshop dates for  2019. This will be my last workshop dates in South Africa. Luckily for technology, we will be able to keep in touch through the blog and through Instagram.

Hope you have a super day and week! I am off to pack!

Projekte vir Maart 2019

Goeiedag my hekelvriendinne! Ja, ek is skuldig. Ek was lanklaas bedrywig om my blog, maar ek het ten minste vergoed deur julle op hoogte te hou op Instagram. Mens kla nie oor werk nie – veral nie in vandag se eknonomiese situasie nie. Ek word uit my skoene geseën met werk,  maar ek voel dat ek die meeste van die tyd versuipslag swem. Ek glo dat daar binnekort ‘n bietjie lig sal wees. Hier is weer so twee projekkies vir die hande wat jeuk. Geniet dit. Ek het ook my werkswinkelinligting opgedateer en ek heg dit ook aan.

Vrouekeur 15 Maart: Hasiebewertjie:

My vlieënde hasies is gedoen in Vinnis Colours Nikkim en ek het ‘n houtborduurraam vir die hoepel gebruik. Baie maklike projek wat selfs beginners kan doen.

LIG April 2019: Rooskussing

Die rooskussing het stap-vir-stap foto’s vir die hekel van die ontwerp en die kussing is gemaak van Vinnis Colours Bambi. Dit gee ‘n wonderlike rustieke gevoel en tekstuur aan die kussing.

Hier is die opgedateerde werkswinkelprogram. Hoop ek sien julle by van hierdie werkswinkels, want dit is altyd ‘n hoogtepunt vir my om nuwe hekelvriendinne te ontmoet en gesellig saam te kuier.

Lekker week en geniet jou hekel!

Karen Adendorff

Hangers: Vrouekeur 15 Februarie 2019

Daar is ‘n hele paar hekelprojekte wat hierdie week verskyn. In hierdie week se Vrouekeur  van 15 Februarie, gee ek drie patrone vir hangeroortreksels – een met ‘n skulprandjie, een met ‘n interessante motief en een met lusse waaraan serpies kan hang. Omdat die patrone effens ongewoon is, het ek besluit om die diagramme van die patrone ook te teken en in te sluit. Dit vergemaklik die verstaanbaarheid van die patrone. Die oortreksels is in MoYa-katoendraad DK gedoen.

LIG Maart 2019

In Maart se uitgawe, wat alreeds op die rakke is, het ek ‘n sagte bamboesserpie-patroon gedeel wat gedoen is in Nurturing Fibres se Eco-Bamboo. Die draad maak die serpie sysag – geskik vir tussenin weer. Die patroon sluit ook ‘n diagram in.

 

Ek hoop dat julle die patrone geniet en moet die vergeet van die opkomende werkswinkel in Johannesburg nie!

Sien julle daar!

Groete

Karen Adendorff

 

Fabric and Crochet

Welcome back all my craft friends! I hope 2019 will be a fantastic year for all of you and that your creativity will have no boundaries. As many of you will know South Africa has its yearly December holiday and that is the reason for my silence the past couple of weeks. I had a wonderful holiday in the Eastern Cape at Cape St. Francis  – those of you that follow me on Instagram would have seen the beautiful place with all its natural treasures. But with all good holidays, it has to come to an end and now we are all back to work.

Here are some info on the patterns for this week:

Vrouekeur, 11 Januarie 2019

In hierdie weeks se uitgawe van Vrouekeur, is ‘n basiese patroon om ‘n lapserp met gehekelde blomme en krale te versier. Die patroon sluit ook ‘n diagram van die blomme in.

LIG tydskrif, Februarie 2019

Maak vadoeke mooi met borduur- en hekelwerk. Die patrone sluit gewone borduurwerk asook kruisiesteek in en twee verskillende maniere om gehekelde randjies te maak. Die tydskrif sal vanaf 14 Januarie op die rakke in Suid-Afrika wees.

Workshops dates 2019

Here are the workshop dates for this year. Please book with contact person and not with me.

Lekker hekel

Karen Adendorff

Vrouekeur 7 Desember 2018 Skulpstreeptop

Jy kan die toppie se patroon in hierdie week se Vrouekeur kry. Die toppie word gehekel vanaf die halslyn tot by die soom in ‘n herhalende skulppatroon. Dit word ook in die rondte gehekel en ek het Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK gebruik vir hierdie  somertop.

In die patroon word aangedui hoe om die top breër en langer te maak. Dit is nie ‘n beginnerpatroon nie, maar as jy die skulppatroon gesnap het, is die res van die patroon maklik aangesien dit net ‘n herhaling is. Dit is slegs by die mou-openinge waar die spesifieke rondte effens anders gehekel word. Natuurlik kan bandjies ook vir skouers gehekel word indien verkies.

Probeer ook die gratis patroon wat op Vrouekeur se webtuiste beskikbaar is – http://www.vrouekeur.co.za. Die toppie is ‘n kombinasie van besemstokhekel en gewone hekelsteke.

Ek hoop julle hekel heerlik!

Karen Adendorff

LIG Desember 2018: Handwerkkoevertjies

As jou idees opraak met geskenkies en jy ‘n vriendin het wat hou van handwerk, is hierdie naaldwerkkoevertjies ‘n oulike en nuttige geskenk. Dit is klein genoeg om saam te reis of in jou handsak saamgedra te kan word! Die templaat en stappe is in die tydskrif ingesluit.

Geniet die week se handwerk!

Groete Karen

Badmat in Kruise: Vrouekeur 16 November 2018

In hierdie week se Vrouekeur, deel ek my badmatpatroon wat gedoen is in Elle se Cotton-On Chunky. Die mat bestaan uit verskillende soorte kruissteke wat in rye gehekel is en dan op die punte met ‘n chevron-patroon afgerond word. Die mat is ‘n heerlike grootte wat ook vir ‘n los mat langs ‘n bed gebruik kan word en die katoendraad maak dit ook ligter as T-hempdraad en maklik masjienwasbaar.

Ek hoop julle geniet die patroon!

Groete en lekker hekel

Karen Adendorff

Christmas Crafts

I can’t believe it is already that time of the year and we all have to think about year end and Christmas presents! And of course all our crafters want to give something handmade or want to create a handmade Christmas. I have designed a couple of crochet patterns for magazines to help with the Christmas fever and maybe to assist with the gift crisis.

Cupcake toppings: This week in Vrouekeur (2 November 2018), I have created cupcake toppings for Consol-bottles. You can fill it with whatever you like. It is lovely presents for someone who loves needlework as the cupcakes make lovely pincushions.

Christmas stocking: In the latest edition of Ideas magazine (November/December 2018), you will find a colourful Christmas stocking pattern that can hold quite a lot of presents!

Chair covers: You will also find chair covers as well a colourful beach bag pattern in the Ideas magazine to keep you busy during the summer holiday…

Beach Bag:

So make sure you get both the magazines to be ready for Christmas and the holiday season!

Of course during my crochet retreat with Ideas magazine, I bought myself an antique colander and saw many embroidery possibilities with its imperfect punched holes. With a little bit of colour and creativity, I am quite satisfied with the artistic result.  Now to find a special place agains the wall…

I hope you found a lot of inspiration to keep your hand busy! Happy crochet week…

Karen Adendorff

Handwerk: ‘n Sakkie en ietsie uit die See

Vrouekeurhekelpatroon 19 Oktober 2018: Etniese handsak

Die sterk kontras in baie etniese patrone het my geïnspireer om hierdie handsak te ontwerp. Natuurlik kan hierdie sak heeltemal anders vertoon in ander kleurkombinasies of bont kleurgebruik. hierdie patroon is gedoen in Elle se Natural Premier Cotton. Ek hoop julle geniet die patroon hierdie week.

See-bewertjie in Novemberuitgawe van LIG 2018:

Baie maklike en vinnige dekor vir jou badkamer of seehuisie. Gebruik materiale uit die see soos dryfhout en skulpe om dit meer outentiek te maak. Die metaalrame het ek gevind in ‘n handwerkwinkel in Pretoria, maar houtborduurrame kan net so goed werk.

 

Geniet die week en ek hoop julle hande is besig!

Groete

Karen Adendorff

Kantsomertoppie: Vrouekeur 5 Oktober 2018

Hierdie kanttoppie is gedoen in MoYa se Caresse en bestaan uit twee identiese pante wat in die sye aanmekaar gehekel word. Die patroon begin by die blom in die middel en word dan al in die rondte na buite gehekel. Die Caresse hekel lekker vinnig en is heerlik koel in die somer. Ek hoop julle geniet die patroon vir die week.

Workshop news: Then I had the most wonderful trip to KwaZulu-Natal the past week. I had a workshop in Newcastle, Hilton and Kloof @ beinspired. It was simply lovely! I had the most wonderful time and we had so many funny moments! Thank you to all the people who attended the workshops, all the new friends I have made and all of those who did the arrangements to make each and every workshop so memorable and extremely successful.

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Processed with MOLDIV

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Today I am off to Stellenbosch for the Quilt Festival and it is a privilege to give three workshops at this wonderful event. I am super excited and I believe it will be fun and an amazing experience! See you.

Lekker hekel, friends!

Karen

Eenhoring-rugsakkie: Vrouekeur 21 September

Eenhorings is deesdae so gewild dat jy bykans aan enigiets kan dink en daar is ‘n eenhoring op. Die dogtertjies is absoluut gek daaroor! Ek moes natuurlik swig onder die druk van ‘n hekelontwerp met ‘n eenhoring daarop. Daarom dat ek gedink het aan iets prakties soos ‘n rugsakkie. Dit is regtig ‘n baie maklike patroon wat vinnig hekel en ek hoop ek en ‘n paar oumas maak ‘n paar dogtertjies se harte bly.

Verder herinner ek julle graag aan die gratis komberspatroon op Vrouekeur se webwerf:

Moet ook nie die volgende werkswinkels misloop nie. Min dae vir die Natallers! Jay!

Lekker hekel hierdie week!

Groete en baie seën.

Karen

 

Granny Magic etc.

As promised, I am happy to share four Granny Square patterns that make unusual blankets when joined. Each square has a fully written pattern in American terminology,  a diagram, a photo of the individual square as well as a picture of the square when joined. I hope you have fun in doing these squares.

Please note: The new colour is always joined in the last dc of the group. You do not complete the dc, but leave the two last loops on the hook and complete it by bringing in the new colour. The old colour is carried behind the work and caught while you are working until needed again.

Abbreviations (American terminology)

beg = begin, ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, rnd = round, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch

Diagram symbols

1. Cross-boxes:

With Red and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Blue; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, [(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch) in the next 3 ch-sp] 3 times, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Green; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Green, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Green, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, [change to Green, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice] 3 times, change to Green, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: with Blue; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) 3 times, [change to Blue, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) 3 times] 3 times, change to Blue, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 6: ss into the 2 ch-sp; 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Blue, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Blue, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

2. Flower chain

With Cream and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Purple; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, [(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch) in the next 3 ch-sp] 3 times, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Cream; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Cream, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 5: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, ss intop top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

3. Tic-tac-toe

With Blue and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Green; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, [(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch) in the next 3 ch-sp] 3 times, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Pink; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Pink, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Pink, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, [change to Pink, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice] 3 times, change to Pink, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 5: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Pink, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Pink, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

4. Diagonal boxes: 

Processed with MOLDIV

Processed with MOLDIV

With Cream and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Blue; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Cream; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Cream, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, ss intop top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: with Turquoise; join in the 2 ch-sp; 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 6: ss into the 2 ch-sp; 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, ss intop top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Upcoming Workshops for September and beginning October:

Have a wonderful week!

Kind regards

Karen Adendorff

 

Crochaic workshop: 8 September 2018

See you there! Greetings Karen

Blokonderbaadjie: Vrouekeur 7 September 2018

Daar was soveel navrae na ‘n eenvoudige blokonderbaadjie dat ek genoodsaak was om een vir julle te ontwerp. Dit is ‘n baie maklike en eenvoudige patroon wat enige hekelaar sal kan hekel. Die baadjie is gedoen in Nurturing Fibres  se Eco-cotton en is heerlik vir die koel lenteweer.

Onthou ook die naweek se Mosaïekel-werkswinkel in Pretoria:

Hoop om baie van julle te sien, want dit is ‘n heerlike, kreatiewe sessie!

Groete en lekker hekelweek.

Karen

Workshops for the rest of the year: 2018

Here are all the workshops for the rest of the year. Please contact the relevant person or website for bookings:

31 August 2018:

8 September 2018:

KwaZulu-Natal tour September 2018:

Good Hope Quilters Guild, October 2018:

Idees/Ideas Magazine Weekend, October 2018:

Upcoming workshops: August/September

Please note the following workshops in Pretoria, 31 August and 8 September. Book with the contact person or at the ticket office as indicated. Hope to see you there if you are in the area.

Have a blessed crochet week!

Karen Adendorff

Blokbolero in LIG September 2018

Hekel hierdie bolero, gedoen in Nurturing Fibres se Eco-fusion, deur die blokke op ‘n interessante manier aanmekaar te heg. Die patroon het duidelike stap-vir-stap foto’s van die blokpatroon in asook diagramme vir die vashekel van die blokke.

Then I want to share the lovely work and colours of two Lykke Squares done by two lovely crochet friends. The first one is done by Vinni, who is also the owner of the lovely Vinni-yarn series. She made a beautiful cushion from her lovely blues.

The other version is done by Andria Odendaal and she used all her rich colour leftover yarns. Her Lykke Square will be a wall hanging.

Please feel free to share your versions of the Lykke Square on acaden@mweb.co.za. Happy crochet week!

Karen Adendorff

Vrolike mus uit Tibet: Vrouekeur 17 Augustus 2018

Ek was so geïnspireer deur die vrolike motiewe van die weefwerk van Tibet dat ek besluit het om ‘n kindermus te ontwerp met van hierdie vrolike elemente. Die mus bestaan uit ‘n klomp verskillende steke met ‘n strook tapisserie-hekelwerk. Dan kan die mus verder met eenvoudige borduurwerk versier word.

Geniet ook die Gratis patroon op Vrouekeur se webwerk: http://www.vrouekeur.co.za – Veeldoelige sjaal.

 

Upcoming workshops 2018

Please take note of all the different workshops available for the rest of the year. Book with the specific contact person or link.

See you hopefully there!

Kind regards

Karen

Lykke Square CAL final: 31-43

Abbreviations for rows 31- 43:

beg = begin, ch st = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, lp = loop, rep = repeat, rnd = round, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch, trtr = triple treble stitch

Triple treble stitch:

1. Wrap the yarn three times over hook.
2. Insert the hook in next stitch.
3. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the loop of the work leaving five loops on the hook.
4. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
5. Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook. Repeat this step.
6. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

 Picot: 3 ch, ss in the 1st ch.

Pattern:

Rnd 31: with Purple Pink; join in the 2nd sc of the corner 11 sc between two spike sts, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 3 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, *1 sc in the next 9 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 3 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc.

Rnd 32: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 2 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, *1 sc in the next 9 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 2 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 33: with Baby Yellow; join in the 5th sc, 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same st, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 18 times, 1 ch, skip 1 st, * (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next sc, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 18 times, 1 ch, skip 1 st; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 34: with Wine; join in any sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in evey sc and in every 1 ch-sp with (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in every 3 ch-corner-sp to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 35: with Baby Yellow, join in 3 ch-sp, 6 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), 1 dc in the same sp, 1 dc in in every sc and (1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc) in every 3 ch-corner-sp, ss in 3rd of beg-6 ch.

Corners:

Row 36: with Purple Pink; join in 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same sp, 2 sc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 20 dc, (8 ch, ss in the same st) 3 times, 1 sc in the next 19 dc, 2 sc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, turn.

Row 37: 1 ch, skip 1 st sc, 2 sc tog over the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 15 sc, (3 ch, 1 sc in the in the next 8 ch-lp) 3 times, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 15 sc, 2 sc tog over the next 2 sc, turn. Fasten off.

Row 38 (RS): with Raspberry; 3 ch, 2 dc tog over the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next 10 sc, 4 dc in the next 3 ch-sp, 4 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, 4 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 4 dc in the next 3 ch-sp, skip 3 sc, 1 dc in the next 10 sc, 3 dc tog over next 3 sts (skip last st). Fasten off.

Row 39 (RS): with Blue Canard; skip 1st 3 ch, 3 ch in the next st, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, 3 ch, skip 5 dc, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, (2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, 3 ch, skip 5 dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, 3 dc tog over the next 3 sts, skip last st. Fasten off.

Row 40 (RS): with Wine; skip 1st 3 ch, 3 ch in the next st, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, 3 dc tog over the next 3 sts, turn.

Row 41 (RS): 3 ch, 1 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, skip next sc, 1 tr in the next sc, 4 ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 4 ch, trtr in the same sp, picot, 4 ch, 1 tr in the same sp, 4 ch, skip 8 sc, 1 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, ss in the last st, turn.

Row 42 (RS): 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st (1st ss), 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the picot, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the last 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the last st. Fasten off.

Follow rows 36-42 for the other 3 corners.

Last rnd: Complete the last round with Peach dc stitches and the corners with (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in every 3 ch-corner-sp.

Now the square is ready to be blocked. Tadaaa!

I sincerely hope you enjoyed the pattern. Please share your final work with me. It is always makes me happy to see everyone’s colour interpretation of the same pattern.

There will be more patterns to come in the near future!

Enjoy the weekend!

Karen

 

Reghoekonderbaadjie: Vrouekeur 3 Augustus 2018

 

 

In hierdie week se Vrouekeur, deel ek die immergewilde reghoekonderbaadjie wat maklik vir verskillende groottes aangepas kan word en ook op veelsydige maniere gedra kan word. Ek het met Elle se Alula gespeel, maar ek dink dat ‘n gare met gewig soos bamboes baie mooi vir hierdie patroon sal werk aangesien dit mooier drapeer. Nietemin, bied Alula bietjie warmte vir kouer weer, maar ‘n katoen- of bamboes weergawe is beter vir koel somermaande.

Ek hoop julle geniet die patroon. Die steke is basiese hekelsteke sodat almal die patroon met gemak kan hekel.

Lekker week en heerlik hekel!

Groete Karen Adendorff

Lykke Square CAL: 21-30

Abbreviations for rounds 21-30:

beg = begin, ch st = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch

Stitch explanations:

Spike stitch

1. Insert the hook through the work at the place indicated by the pattern.
2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull the loop to the front.
3. Complete the stitch as usual. Do not pull the yarn too tight or it will deform the work.

Pattern:

Rnd 21: with Wine; join in the 1st tr, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st and in the next 8 tr, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next 9 tr, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 22: with Blue Canard; join in 1st of the previous rnd (1st of the shell); 2 ch (= 1 hdc); 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over the next 3 sc (skip the sc in between), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over next 2 sc (skip sc behind), 1 dc in the next sc, *1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over the next 3 sc (skip the sc in between), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over next 3 sc (skip sc in between), 1 dc in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-2 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 23: with Purple Pink; join in the 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 dc in the next ch, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 sc in the next ch) 3 times, 1 sc in the same 3 ch-sp, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next 23 sts, skip 1 sc, *(1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 6 ch, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 dc in the next ch, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 sc in the next ch) 3 times, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next 23 sts, skip 1 sc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 24: with Blue Canard; join in the 1st leaf point, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 3 ch, skip 6 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 7 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch, *1 sc in the next leaf point, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 3 ch, skip 6 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 7 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 25: again with Blue Canard; join in the 1st 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, 4 dc in the same sp, 5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, 3 ch, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, (5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp) twice, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, skip 2 sc, *(5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp) twice, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, 3 ch, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, (5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp) twice, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, skip 2 sc; rep from * to end, ss in top of the beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 26: with Baby Yellow; join in any st, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in every sc and in every dc and (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in every 3 ch-sp to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 27: with Peach; join the 3 ch-sp, 6 ch, 1 dc in the same sp, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc, 5 dc tog over the next 5 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc, *(1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc, 5 dc tog over the next 5 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in the 3rd of the beg-6 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 28: with Baby Yellow, join in the 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, (1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp) 6 times, 3 sc tog over next 3 sts, (1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc) 6 times, *(1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch-sp, (1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp) 6 times, 3 sc tog over next 3 sts, (1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc) 6 times; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc.

Rnd 29: with Sunshine, join in the 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same sp, skip 1 sc, (5 dc in the the next sc, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, skip 2 sc) 6 times, 5 dc in the next sc, skip 1 sc, *1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, skip 1 sc, (5 dc in the the next sc, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, skip 2 sc) 6 times, 5 dc in the next sc, skip 1 sc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc.

Rnd 30: with Raspberry, join in the sc on corner point, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, (1 sc in the next 5 dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc) 6 times, 1 sc in the next 5 dc, *1 sc in the next sc, (1 sc in the next 5 dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc) 6 times, 1 sc in the next 5 dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Enjoy!!!!!

Regards Karen Adendorff

Lykke Square CAL: 11-20

Here are the following pattern instructions for the next 10 rounds. Please share your progress in photos with me. I always love to see different colour interpretations of the same pattern.

Abbreviations for rounds 11-20:

beg = begin, ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, lp = loop, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch

Rnd 11: with Blue Canard; join in 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 sc in the same sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc, (1 hdc, 2 ch, 1 hdc) in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc, *3 sc in the the next 3 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc, (1 hdc, 2 ch, 1 hdc) in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 12: with Purple Pink; join in the 1st sc, 3 ch (= 1st dc), 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc in the next 2 sc, 10 ch (loop behind the petal), *2 dc in the next 3 sc, 10 ch; rep from * tot end, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 13: with Sunshine; join with sc around the 1st tr of rnd 7, 1 sc around the next tr of rnd 7, 18 ch, * 1 sc around the next tr of rnd 7, 1 sc around the next tr of rnd 7, 18 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 14: with Baby Yellow; join in the 10 ch-lp of rnd 12, 1 ch, 10 sc in the 10 ch-lp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, *10 sc in next the 10 ch-lp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 15: with Purple Pink; join in 1st sc after the small flower, 3 ch (= 1st dc), 1 dc in the next 13 dc, 2 ch, 1 sc in the middle 3 ch-sp (middle small flower), 2 ch, skip next (sc, 3 ch, 1 sc = next small flower), *1 dc in the next 14 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc in the middle 3 ch-sp (middle small flower), 2 ch, skip next (sc, 3 ch, 1 sc = next small flower); rep from * to end, ss in top of 3 ch-sp. Fasten off.

Rnd 16: with Baby Yellow; join in the 1st 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 2 sc in the same sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc together with 2 ch-sp of the petal, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, *2 sc in the next 2 ch- sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc together with 2 ch-sp of the petal, 1 sc in the next 6 dc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 17: with Wine; join in any sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, *1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 18: with Baby Yellow; join in any sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 19: with Peach, join in sc just after the petal, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 6 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, *1 sc in the next 7 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 20: with Peach again, join in the 3 ch-sp before 7 sc-gp, 4 ch (= 1st tr), 8 tr in the same sp, 1 ch, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, 9 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, *9 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, 9 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-4-ch. Fasten off.

 

Rosetkombers: Vrouekeur 20 Julie 2018

Die rosetkombers in hierdie week se uitgawe van die Vrouekeur, gebruik ‘n motief uit my nuutste boek, “Hekel teëlmotiewe met ‘n verskil” of “Crochet tile motifs with a difference”.

Ek het slegs die groot motief gebruik en die res van die kombers herontwerp.  Die patroon in die Vrouekeur sluit die diagram in om dit makliker te maak vir die wat verkies om diagramme te lees. Dit is ‘n gevorderde patroon, maar nie so ingewikkeld dat dit nie bemeester kan word nie. Ek hoop dat julle die patroon geniet en nog ‘n moontlikheid sien waarop die teëlmotiewe aangewend kan word.

Ek hoop die patroon gee julle hope vreugde en geniet die hekel! Indien daar enige vrae is, rig dit aan my by acaden@mweb.co.za.

Groete

Karen Adendorff

 

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Lykke Square CAL: 1-10

Lykke means ‘happiness’ in Danish and I did the pattern after I read “The little book of Lykke” by Meik Wiking. The book inspired me to search for the small things that make me happy and to let go of the things that restrict my creativity. I abandoned quite a lot of social media platforms and stick to the ones that promote creativity and positive thinking. It was maybe not the best decision businesswise but the best for a creative soul that needs sanity and an environment free from negativity. I hope you enjoy the pattern as I did and feel free to ask when you need some assistance.

This pattern is ideal for a centre focus for a bedspread, small table cloth of large cushion.

This week we start with rounds 1-10. The CAL consists of 43 rounds. So week 2 will be 11-20, week 3 will be 21-30 and week 4 will be from 31-43.

It is written in American Crochet Terminology.

 Difficulty: Relative easy, but not for beginner.

 Materials:

• Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK (50 g-balls): Because I used all my left overs from different balls, it is difficult to determine the exact quantities of each colour, but I will indicate the colours that I have used in the square:

Purple Pink , Raspberry, Peach, Baby Yellow, Blue Canard, Sunshine and Wine

• 3 mm crochet hook

Size:

52 cm x 52 cm but it may be larger if your tension is looser.

Abbreviations for row 1-10:

beg = begin, ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch

Pattern:

With Purple Pink and 3 mm hook, work 6 ch, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch (= 1st dc), 15 dc in the ring = 16 dc. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Raspberry; join in any dc, 4 ch (= 1st dc + 1 ch), (1 dc, 1 ch) in every dc to end. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Peach; join in any dc, 6 ch (= 1st dc + 3 ch), 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, *(1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc) in the next dc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in 3rd of beg-6 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: with Baby Yellow, join in 3 ch-sp, (1 sc, 1 ch, 1sc) in the same sp, 3 ch, 5 dc tog over the next 5 dc, 3 ch, *(1 sc, 1 ch, 1sc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, 5 dc tog over the next 5 dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: with Blue Canard; join in the eye loop of the 5 dc tog, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 ch, 6 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, * 1 sc in the next dc tog st, 1 ch, 6 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: with Raspberry; join in the 1st dc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 5 dc, 1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next 6 dc, 1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next sc,1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: with Blue Canard; join in the 3rd hdc, 1 ch, *[(1 sc in the next 8 sts, 2 tr tog (1 tr in 3 ch-sp of rnd 4 and 2nd tr in next 3 ch-sp of rnd 4) (skip the hdc behind the st)]; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: with Baby Yellow; join the 1st sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, (2 dc in the next sc) twice, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 sc in the last sc, 2 ch, skip 2 tr tog, *1 sc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, (2 dc in the next sc) twice, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 sc in the last sc, 2 ch, skip 2 tr tog; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 9: with Peach, join in the 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 2 nd ch from hook and in the next 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, 5 ch, skip (1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc), 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 5 ch, skip (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), *(1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 2 nd ch from hook and in the next 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 5 ch, skip (1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc), 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 5 ch, skip (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc); rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 10: with Raspberry; join in the 1st ch (of the 5 ch-petal point), 3 ch (= 1st dc), 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc in the next 3 ch, 1 ch, 2 dc in the next 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8, 3 ch, skip 2 sc of rnd 9, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8, *2 dc in the next 4 ch (the 5 ch-petal point), 1 ch, 2 dc in the next 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8, 3 ch, skip 2 sc of rnd 9, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Until next week… happy crochet!

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Fairisle stewelkouse: Vrouekeur 6 Julie 2018

In hierdie week se Vrouekeur, is my bont, warm stewelkouse-patroon – perfek vir die koue weer. Dit is gehekel met Nurturing Fibres SuperTwist DK 100% Merino in hulle pragtige kleure. Natuurlik kan dit ook in enige ander dubbelbreidraad gehekel word.

Die kouse bestaan uit ‘n verskeidenheid interessante patroonsteke en dit maak dat daar geen vervelige hekelwerk is nie. Die steke behoort nie moeilik te wees nie, maar ek heg wel ‘n diagram aan van die spykertrossie wat vir party hekelaars nog nuut of vreemd mag wees. Ek hoop julle geniet die patroon en stuur gerus foto’s van julle klaar kouse na acaden@mweb.co.za. Ek maak graag ‘n fotogalery en deel dit met almal.

Lekker hekel die week!

Karen Adendorff

 

GRATIS: Kry ook die gratis Mandala Matpatroon op Vrouekeur se webblad: http://www.vrouekeur.co.za. Vir die wat hom in die verlede gehekel het, en dalk vrae mag hê oor die patroon. Ek het wel ‘n aanpassing in rdte 18 gemaak wat nou op die patroon op webblad aangedui aangebring is.

 

 

 

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Workshop dates 2018: Crochet Motifs

These are the dates for the Motif Workshop for the rest of the year. My new workshop theme will be announced the end of July. Please book with the contact person as indicated. I really can’t wait to meet you all and to have a wonderful crochet day! For me these workshops are blessings!

Angel Wings

This my special thank you free pattern for all the support the past year. It was a tough year for me and I really want to thank each and everyone who supported me and motivated me when I needed strength to carry on. I am going to take a break for the rest of December and will see you in the New Year. May you have a blessed festive season!

What you will need:

Vinnis Colours Nikkim in Natural and 3 mm crochet hook

Sugar:water (50:50) solution, starch or a solution of wood glue and a little bit of water

Abbreviations (American terminology):

beg – begin, ch – chain stitch, dc – double crochet stitch, cl – cluster, gp – group, hdc – half double crochet stitch, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet stitch, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, st(s) – stitch(es), tog – together, tr – treble stitch

Size: 42 cm in length

Pattern:

With Natural, crochet 8 ch, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 16 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc.

Rnd 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 sc, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 3: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 5 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 dc, 5 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch, *1 dc in the same st and in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 5: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch, *1 dc in the same st and in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 6: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 3 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the next dc, 3 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 dc, 3 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the next dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 7: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next 2 dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc.

 

From here the wing point is formed:

Row 1: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, (3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc) 10 times, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc, in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, turn.

Row 2: ss in next 3 sts and into 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *4 ch, 1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 10 ch-sps, turn.

Row 3: ss into 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *5 ch, 1 sc in the next 4 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 9 ch-sps, turn.

Row 4: ss into 5 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 8 ch-sps, turn.

Row 5: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 7 ch-sps, turn.

Row 6: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 6 ch-sps, turn.

Row 7: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 5 ch-sps, turn.

Row 8: 6 ch, 1 sc in the 1st ch-sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end, 3 ch, 1 dc in the last sc = 6 ch-sps, turn.

Row 9: ss into 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 5 ch-sps, turn.

Row 10: rep row 8.

Row 11: rep row 9.

Row 12: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 4 ch-sps, turn.

Row 13: 5 ch, 1 sc in the 1st ch-sp, *5 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end, 2 ch, 1 dc in the last sc = 5 ch-sps, turn.

Row 14: rep row 12.

Row 15: rep row 13.

Row 16: rep row 12.

Row 17: 3 ch, (4 dc in next 5 ch-sp) 4 times, 1 dc in last st, turn.

Row 18: 3 ch, 1 dc in next dc, (2 dc tog over next 2 dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) 4 times, turn.

Row 19: 4 ch, (skip 1 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 1 ch) 5 times, 1 dc in the next dc, turn (leave last dc) = 7 dc.

Row 20: 3 ch, (1 dc in the 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next dc) 6 times, turn = 13 dc.

Row 21: 3 ch, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc, (1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in last st, turn.

Row 22: 3 ch, 1 dc in every st, turn = 9 dc.

Row 23: 4 ch, (skip 1 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 1 ch) 3 times, 1 dc in the next dc, turn.

Row 24: 3 ch, (1 dc in the 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next dc) 4 times, turn = 9 dc.

Row 25: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the last 2 dc, turn.

Row 26: 3 ch, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the last dc, turn.

Row 27: 3 ch, 3 dc tog over next 3 dc, 1 dc in last dc, turn.

Row 28: 3 dc, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc, turn.

With RS front, work 2 rounds sc around the wing, ending each rnd with ss.

Last rnd: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, *3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc; rep from * to end.

 

 

 

 

 

Beginner Lessons : how to be left-handed and crochet the ‘right'(-handed) way – week 2

This week I will show you the basic stitches. From here on you will be able to do a lot of  stitch patterns and more fancy stitches by using these basic stitches.  In the next lesson I will show you the basics of rounds. 

Basic stitches (working in ROWS)

Please watch and practise with the videos with each stitch in order to see how the right-hand technique is used and use the photos to assist you in how the stitch is made.

Below are the symbols of the basic stitches explained in this lesson as it appears on crochet diagrams.

The slip stitch (ss) 

Click here to watch the video.

The slip stitch does not have height, but is more a utility stitch mostly used to combine rounds.

1. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the next chain of the first chain from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.
2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
3. Draw the yarn through both loops while one loop stays on the hook.

Single crochet stitch (sc) 

Click here to watch the video.

The single crochet stitch is the shortest stitch.

1. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 2nd chain (in order to have the height of 1 chain, but it DOES not count as the first stitch) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

 

2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

3. Pull the yarn through the same opening,  leaving 2 loops on the hook.

4. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

5. Draw the yarn through both loops on the hook while one loop stays on the hook.

 

When doing the next row, make 1 chain stitch and turn the work.

Make 1st single crochet in the first opening below both the upper loops.

ALL the single crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

 

Half double crochet (hdc) 

Click here to watch the video.

1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 3rd chain (in order to have the height of 2 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

3. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 3 loops on the hook.

4. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

 

Draw the yarn through all three loops on the hook while one loop stays on the hook.

When doing the next row, make 2 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st half double crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st half double crochet stitch.

 ALL the half double crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

 

Double crochet (dc) 

Click here to watch the video.

1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
2. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 4th chain (in order to have the height of 3 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

3. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

4. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 3 loops on the hook.

5. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

6. Draw the yarn through two loops on the hook.

7. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

8. Draw the yarn through last two loops on the hook.

 

When doing the next row, make 3 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st double crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st double crochet stitch.

 ALL the double crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

Treble crochet (tr)

Click here to watch the video.

1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
2. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 5th chain (in order to have the height of 4 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

3. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

4. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 4 loops on the hook.

5. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

6. Draw the yarn through two loops while 2 loops stay on the hook.

7. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

8. Draw the yarn through next two loops on the hook.

9. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

10. Draw the yarn through last two loops on the hook.

When doing the next row, make 4 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st treble crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st treble crochet stitch.

ALL the treble crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

For the larger stitches, the stitch pattern repeats in the same relationships.

You can also refer to my books for more complete step by steps of all the stitches, fancy stitches and patterns as well as techniques.

 

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Beginner Lessons : how to be left-handed and crochet the ‘right'(-handed) way – week 1

 

WEEK 1: THE START

Blokhulp met Sigeunertop-patroon

Ek ervaar dat mense probleme ondervind om die patrone reg te verstaan of dat hulle sukkel om patrone te lees. Dit lyk amper of dié ‘n werkswinkel kan word! Ek het dit daarom goedgedink om die blokke se foto’s te plaas sodat julle die blokke kan visualiseer terwyl julle dit hekel of die patroon lees.

Die blokpatrone herhaal deurgaans deur die top, dus as jy die al die beginblokke onder die knie het, is die res maklik. As jy vind dat jou aantal rye korrek is, maar dat jou blok nie pas nie, kan dit wees dat jou spanning nie konsekwent is nie. Glo my, dit gebeur gereeld met patrone wat blokke in verskillende patroonsteke het. Pas dan jou aantal rye aan tot die blok pas.

Ek het weer deur elke blokpatroon gegaan en by slegs 2 blokke het ek korreksies aangebring wat dan by die blok aangedui word. Ek vra om verskoning vir die ongerief, maar kan jou waarborg dat die ‘tikfoute’ nie jou top gaan op’stuff’ nie. Dit is menslike foute wat maar insluip omdat dit ‘n baie omvangryke patroon is. Ek laat alles kontroleer, maar daar is altyd die moontlikheid dat iets oorgesien word. Ek sal altyd onthou hoe ek my verhandeling vir my meestersgraad ingehandig het, nadat 5 mense dit gekontroleer het. Die uiteinde – die eksaminator het 15 spelfoute gekry! Tot vandag toe, weet ek nie hoe dit oorgekyk is nie, maar dit gebeur.

Ek vra vriendelik dat indien jy vashaak met ‘n patroon om my persoonlik te inbox of ‘n epos na my te stuur by acaden@mweb.co.za. 90% van die kere uit my ervaring in afgelope 10 jaar van patrone skryf, is dit omdat patrone nie reg gelees word nie. Ek help graag en die wat my werkswinkels bygewoon het, sal weet dat ek ‘n geduldige leermeester is.

Hier is elke blok se patroon:

Blok 1:

Blok 2:

Blok 3:

Blok 4:

Blok 5:

Blok 6: korreksie:

1ste ry: 1 lb in 6de ks vanaf pen, *1 ks, slaan 1 ks oor, ….

Blok 7:

Blok 8: korreksie:

Herh ry 2-6 nog 2 keer en dan ry 2-3 nog een keer = 18 rye in totaal.

Blok 9: Korreksie: volg patroon en hekel 11 rye. 

Blok 10:

Blok 11:

Blok 12:

Blok 13:

Blok 14:

Blok 15:

Blok 16: 

Blok 17:

Blok 18:

Blok 19:

Blok 20:

Blok 21:

Blok 22: 

Blok 23: 

Blok 24:

Blok 25:

Blok 26:

Blok 27:

Blok 7 agter:

Blok 8 agter:

 

Volle rugkant van top:

 

Moroccan Square Project Borders

After you have finished joining your squares you might run into trouble finding a suitable border for the finished project as the sides of each square has 29 stitches.

The best way to resolve this is to create a basic loop border from which you can elaborate further or leave it simple as it is. I have given two variations on the simple loop border. It is however a challenge to write these borders clear and understandable enough to follow, but hopefully the photo’s will clearly illustrate the pattern. I basically explained the basic pattern that repeats itself on all the sides as well as the corner pattern.

Abbreviations (American Terminology):

beg = begin, ch = chain, cl = cluster, dc = double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch

The simple loop border

Start at the top right corner space of top right square:

Base rnd 1: 1 ch, *(1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc) in the sp, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 14 times, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next corner sp of the same square, 1 ch, **1 sc in the corner sp of the next square, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 14 times, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next corner sp of the same square, 1 ch; rep from ** up to the last corner space of the squares and rep from * again for the next side and the other 2 sides, ss in the beg-sc.

Loop rnd 2: ss into the 1 ch-sp, *(1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the corner sp, (3 ch, skip 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next ch-sp) up to the last last sp before corner sp, 3 ch, rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc.

Rnd 3: 1 ch, (3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc) in every corner sp and 4 sc in every other 3 ch sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Delicate border

 

Follow the simple loop pattern for rnd 1 and 2.

Rnd 3: ss into the corner 3 ch-sp, 7 ch, 1 dc in the same sp, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in every 3 ch-sp and (1 dc, 4 ch, 1 dc) in every corner ch-sp to end, ss in 3rd of beg-7 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the corner 4 ch-sp, 1 ch, [(1 sc, 3 ch) 3 times, 1 sc] in the same sp, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in every 2 ch-sp and [(1 sc, 3 ch) 3 times, 1 sc] in every 4 ch-corner sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Broad border (for blankets, etc)

 

Follow the simple loop pattern for rnd 1 and 2.

 

Rnd 3: ss into the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (1 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc-cl) in the same sp, (2 dc-cl, 2 ch, 2 dc-cl) in every 3 ch-sp and (2 dc-cl, 4 ch, 2 dc-cl) in every corner-sp to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 4 ch-corner sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, *3 ch, 1 sc in sp between next 2 cl, **3 ch, skip 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in sp between next 2 cl; rep from ** up to the coner sp, 3 ch and (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in 4 ch-corner sp, rep from * for the other sides, ss in beg-sc.

Rnd 5: ss into the 3 ch-corner sp, 1 ch, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in the same sp, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in every ch-sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Moroccan Square #9

 

This is the last square in the Moroccan Square series. It has a central pattern and the rest of the square is worked at the back of the central motif. Very easy square and also using back post stitches.

Next week I will share borders that can be used for your projects. I sincerely hope that you enjoyed the patterns. I have another series in the pipeline, but I will keep you posted. My book on different squares will also be released in May 2017 and I will share the info shortly.

Click here for free pattern:

The Afrikaans version is also on the site at http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

 

Moroccan Square #8

The dense interesting centre is formed by cluster and chain layers that gradually develops into and open lacy structure. I have used all the basic stitches but nothing complicated. It is an easy pattern with a lovely motif.

Get the free pattern by clicking on this link

The Afrikaans pattern is aslo available on the same website http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Moroccan Square #6

At first glance, the square looks a little bit more challenging than the previous squares. The only reason for this is that you work stitches in front and at the back of the rounds. At the end it forms a network of colour and layers. I also used front post stitches and clusters. By following the diagram, it will be really easy to do.

TIP: the square tends to be larger than the other squares – change to a slightly smaller hook if it is the case.

Click on link for free pattern:

The Afrikaans is also available on www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Moroccan Square #5

The combination of open spaces works well with the use of puff stitches and clusters. The centre four loop flower or motif is a main feature of most of the moroccan tiles. Instead of filling up the leaves of the flower, I tried to leave it open to make cross but also to link up with the lace work of rounds 8-10.

Click on the link for the free pattern:

The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on the same website.

Moroccan Square #4

This one is, in my opinion, the easiest of all the squares. I have used all the basic stitches, but also included clusters and popcorn stitches. The corners are formed working three double treble crochet stitches together in the designated stitches as explained in the pattern. By following the diagram it should not be a problem.

Use the  link to the pattern in American crochet Terminology.

The Afrikaans is also available on the same website.

 

 

 

Moroccan square #3

This is by far my favourite square with a dainty lacy look. The lacy effect is due to the chains that are used throughout the patten with lots of open spaces. In this square the centre flower motif is formed by working at the back of the stitches by folding the previous round to the front and thus creating layered work.

Follow the link for the free pattern:

http://www.vrouekeur.co.za/english/english-patterns/moroccan-crochet-square-3

The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on the same website http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Moroccan Square #2

This square is very easy and simple – a little bit easier then the previous one. It uses all the basic stitches and make use of picots to create a frilled effect in the centre. Enjoy!

Pattern available at following link:

http://www.vrouekeur.co.za/english/english-patterns/moroccan-crochet-square-2

Pattern also available in Afrikaans on http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Moroccan Square #1

This the first free Moroccan square pattern in the 9 squares in 9 weeks series. I have worked the squares in Vinnis Nikkim 100% cotton DK, but please feel free to it in any DK yarn of choice in the colours you prefer. I did the squares because of the stash I built up during the years of making books and writing patterns, but I must admit I love the dense texture of Vinnis in squares. I will love to see squares in other yarn as well. There are so many wonderful options and brands to choose from. The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on Vrouekeur’s website and are illustrated with diagrams.

The pattern is rated relative easy – with the assumption that you know the basic crochet stitches. In this pattern you will also use the puff stitch and the spike stitch.

Please use the following link to the free pattern: http://www.vrouekeur.co.za/english/english-patterns/moroccan-crochet-square-1.

Enjoy it and show it!

Crochet 9 Squares in 9 weeks

Please visit http://www.vrouekeur.co.za from 1 February for a free weekly crochet square pattern. You can use any DK yarn in any colour you prefer. The squares are each illustrated in a diagram as well. I will share the link of each square on a weekly basis. enjoy!!!!

My Storybook Christmas Tree

This pattern makes beautiful gift tags, bunting, tree decorations or book marks. I made my tree in MoYa 100 % cotton DK yarn from my stash with a 3 mm hook. This pattern is written in between my holiday obligations on request of whole lot of facebookers. So if there is a written mistake please bear with me as I am using holiday time and have limited testing opportunities. Hopefully everything is in order.

Abbreviations (American Terminology):
beg – begin, ch – chain stitch, cl – cluster, dc – double crochet, hdc – half double crochet, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, tr – treble stitch

With colour 1, crochet 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: 1 ch, 6 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc.
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, *1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc = 6 loops.
Rnd 3: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 sc in the next 3 ch sp, *1 sc in the next sc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch sp; rep from *to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.
Rnd 4: with colour 2; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, 2 tr in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, *1 sc in the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, 2 tr in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.
Rnd 5: with colour 3; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 2 ch, *1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc.
Rnd 6: 1 ch 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 2 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 2 ch, *1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 2 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.
Rnd 7: with colour 4: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, (1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc, 8ch, 1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, stem: 7 ch, 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the nect 2 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch, continue in rnd: 1 sc in the next sc, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

The ‘Sunflake’ Square

When showing the square to my children and asking them what they would suggest the name should be, they immediately said that it looked like a snowflake lying on a flower. Then my son came up with the name of ‘sunflake’. I thought that it was really clever and creative and it actually sums up the design. The spike stitches in the flower petals give the impression of a ‘snowflake’

I used Vinnis Nikkim 100% cotton DK from my stash with a 3 mm crochet hook.

Abbreviations and Stitch Explanations (American Terminology):

beg – begin, ch – chain, dc – double crochet stitch, dtr – double treble stitch, fdc – front post double crochet, gp – group, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet stitch, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch, tog – together

Spike stitch:

1. Insert the hook through the work at the place indicated by the pattern.
2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull the loop to the front.
3. Complete the stitch as usual. Do not pull the yarn too tight or it will deform the work.

Front post double crochet:

1. Wrap the yarn over hook, insert hook from right to left around the back of the stem of the next stitch and out at the front again.
2. Complete the double crochet stitch.

Double treble crochet stitch:

Wrap the yarn three times over hook.
Insert the hook in next stitch.
Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the first loop leaving five loops on the hook.
Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook. Repeat this step.
Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

Pattern: 

With Navy, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 11 dc in ring, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Sunshine; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 dc in the next dc, *1 sc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Navy; join in the 1st dc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 4 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc in top of the dc of rnd 1, * 1 sc in the next dc, 4 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc in top of the dc of rnd 1; rep from * to end,  ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: with Cloud Blue; join at the back of the spike stitch with sc, 5 ch, *1 sc at the back of the next spike st, 5 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc.

Rnd 5: 1 ch, 5 sc in every 5 ch sp to end, ss in the beg sc.

Rnd 6: 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 5 sc, 1 fdc around sc (behind spike st of rnd 3); rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: with White; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 fdc around next fdc, * 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 fdc around next fdc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: with Navy; join in fdc, 1 ch, 2 sc in the same st, (3 dc in the next skipped sc of rnd 7) twice, *2 sc in the next fdc, (3 dc in the next skipped sc of rnd 7)  twice; rep from * to end, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 9: with Sunshine; 3 ch, 1 dc in the next st, 1 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 sts, 1 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg 3 ch = 48 dc. Fasten off.

Rnd 10: with Navy; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch sp, *1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch sp; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 11: with Cloud Blue; 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 8 sc, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc) in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 12: with White; join in the 4th sc of the 8 sc gp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st and in the next sc, skip 3 sc, 12 dc in the next 6 ch sp, skip 3 sc, * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, skip 3 sc, 12 dc in the next 6 ch sp, skip 3 sc; rep from * to end; ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 13: with Navy; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 4 sts, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made), 1 sc in the next 3 dc, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made), * 1 sc in the next 9 sts, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made), 1 sc in the next 3 dc, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made); rep from * to end, ending with 1 sc in the last 4 sts, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 14: with White; 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc and 2 sc in every spike st to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 15: with Navy; join in sc after 1st 2 sc gp, 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 5 sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 dc in the next 3 sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 dtr in next sc, 6 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 dtr in next sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc; rep From * to end, ss in beg sc.

Rnd 16: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next 4 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 5 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the next 6 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, *1 dc in the next 5 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 5 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the next 6 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

The Magic Square

This square pattern is really a wonderful square to play with and has many creative possibilities. Not only can different colour combinations change the pattern but also the arrangement of the squares creates different group patterns. Although it is time consuming to crochet the small squares, the rest of the square is very quick and easy, making this square not as difficult as it may look. I hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I did.

Abbreviations and Stitch Explanations (American Terminology): 

beg – begin, ch – chain, dc – double crochet stitch, dtr – double treble stitch, hdc – half double crochet st, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet stitch, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch, tog – together, tr – treble crochet stitch

Double treble crochet stitch:

1. Wrap the yarn three times over hook.
2. Insert the hook in next stitch.
3. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the first loop leaving five loops on the hook.
4. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
5. Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook. Repeat this step.
6. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

 

Treble crochet stitch:

1. Wrap the yarn twice over hook.
2. Insert the hook in next stitch.
3. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the first loop leaving four loops on the hook.
4. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
5. Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook.
6. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

 

Pattern: 

Start by making 2 simple squares: with colour 1; 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to from a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 8 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 2 (colour 2): 1 ch, 2 sc in every sc to end, ss in the 1st sc = 16 sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 3 (colour 3): 1 ch, 1 sc in the the same st, 2 sc in the next sc, *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc; rep from * tot end, ss in the beg sc = 24 sc.

Rnd 4: 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 5 sc, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in the next sc; rep from * to end. Fasten off.

Continue now by connecting the 2 small squares as follows:

Rnd 5: With colour 3, start in the 2 ch sp in the corner of the first square with 1 sc, 6 ch. Now you are going to crochet together a tr, another tr, a dtr and again 2 tr as follows:

After the 6 ch made, skip 2 sts, do a tr in the next st, but do not complete it, leave the last 2 loops on the hook, skip 1 st, do a next tr in the next st but do not complete it…

do a dtr in the next corner 2 ch sp without completing the last step in the st,

move to the other square and skip the corner 2 ch sp, the next dc (of the corner) and 1 sc of this square and do a tr in the next st only up to the last step of the st…

Skip 1 st and do a tr in the next st up to the last step, yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

6 ch, *(1 sc in the next 2 ch sp,

3 ch, skip dc and sc, 1 sc in the next st, 3 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st, 3 ch) twice**, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 6 ch,  (2 tr, 1 dtr, 2 tr) tog in the same way as done previously over the two squares, 6 ch, rep from * to **, ss in the beg-sc.

Rnd 6: ss into the 6 ch sp, *(1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dtr) in the same sp, 3 ch, (1 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc) in the next 6 ch sp, (3 ch, 1 sc in the next 3 ch sp) 6 times, 3 ch; rep from * to end,  ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

I recommend that you block the squares first before joining them. Here are 2 possible groupings of 4 of these squares. Sew the together in the pattern you prefer.

Crochet Series # 5: Spiral & Joining

These two unusual rose patterns are in a class of their own. They are not formed by means of the classical rows that are rolled up or by the traditional layering. It might look daunting at first sight but by following the pattern closely, you will realise that it is quite easy.

Abbreviations and stitch explanations (American Terminology):

ch – chain, dc – double crochet stitch, sc – single crochet stitch, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch, tch – turning chain

Spike stitch:

1. Insert the hook through the work at the place indicated by the pattern.
2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull the loop to the front.
3. Complete the stitch as usual. Do not pull the yarn too tight or it will deform the work.

#9 Spiral rose

The spiral rose is formed by working a flat spiral base of single crochet stitches and then working 3 double crochet stitches around the stems of the single crochet stitches. The rose forms a small tower. It is important to do the base in a larger hook in order to work easier around the stems later on.

Crochet the first part with a larger hook.

Start with 4 ch, ss in the 1^st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 8 sc in ring, do not join with ss, but continue in the rnd.

 

Rnd 2: (1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 4 times.

Rnd 3: (1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 4 times.

Rnd 4: (1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 4 times, ss in the 1^st sc. Fasten off.

 

Continue with smaller hook.

Start at the 1^st sc and work now in every sc as follows:

Crochet 1 ch around the 1^st sc, 3 ch, 2 dc around the same sc, 3 dc around the 2^nd sc, 3 dc around the 3^rd sc, etc. to end. Fasten off.

This is the rose from underneath:

# 10 Joined Rose

This rose is more open due to a layer that is joined in the centre of the rose. Use the markers and the pattern is quite easy.

Start with 23 ks.

Row 1 (colour 1): 1 sc in the 2^nd ch from hook, 2 sc in the next ch, (1 sc in the next ch, 2 sc in the next ch) 10 times, turn.

Row 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, 3 dc in the next sc, (skip 1 sc, 2 dc in the next sc, 3 dc in the next sc) 4 times, skip 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc, skip 3 sc, place marker in the centre skipped sc, (5 dc in the next sc, skip 3 sc, place marker in the centre of 3 skipped sc) 3 times, 5 dc in the last sc, turn.

Row 3 (colour 2): 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, (2 dc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc) 5 times, (2 dc in each of the 3 dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc) 4 times, 2 dc in next 3 dc, 1 sc in tch, turn.

Row 4: 1 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 3 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st over next 2 ch (= 1 sc between 2 skipped dc of row 2), [1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 3 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st] 4 times, [1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st] 4 times, 1 sc in the next 2 dc (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 sc in the last sc. Fasten off.

Row 5 (colour 1): (= short string): join yarn in the 1^st st with marker and crochet 3 ch, 4 dc in the same st, (5 dc in the next st with marker) 3 times (= 4 groups of 5 dc), turn.

Row 6 (colour 2): 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, (2 dc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc) 3 times, 2 dc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 1 sc in the tch, turn.

Row 7: 1 ch, 1 sc in the 1^st sc, [1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st over the next 2 ch and between the 2 dc skipped in row 5] 3 times, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 sc in the last sc. Fasten off.

Start with the single scallops, with right side inwards and roll up. End with the double row and sew together at the bottom.