Eenhoring-rugsakkie: Vrouekeur 21 September

Eenhorings is deesdae so gewild dat jy bykans aan enigiets kan dink en daar is ‘n eenhoring op. Die dogtertjies is absoluut gek daaroor! Ek moes natuurlik swig onder die druk van ‘n hekelontwerp met ‘n eenhoring daarop. Daarom dat ek gedink het aan iets prakties soos ‘n rugsakkie. Dit is regtig ‘n baie maklike patroon wat vinnig hekel en ek hoop ek en ‘n paar oumas maak ‘n paar dogtertjies se harte bly.

Verder herinner ek julle graag aan die gratis komberspatroon op Vrouekeur se webwerf:

IMG_6187

Moet ook nie die volgende werkswinkels misloop nie. Min dae vir die Natallers! Jay!

Clarens2

good hope quilter's gild

Lekker hekel hierdie week!

Groete en baie seën.

Karen

 

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Granny Magic etc.

As promised, I am happy to share four Granny Square patterns that make unusual blankets when joined. Each square has a fully written pattern in American terminology,  a diagram, a photo of the individual square as well as a picture of the square when joined. I hope you have fun in doing these squares.

Please note: The new colour is always joined in the last dc of the group. You do not complete the dc, but leave the two last loops on the hook and complete it by bringing in the new colour. The old colour is carried behind the work and caught while you are working until needed again.

Abbreviations (American terminology)

beg = begin, ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, rnd = round, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch

Diagram symbols

diagramsimbole copy

  1. Cross-boxes:

With Red and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Blue; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, [(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch) in the next 3 ch-sp] 3 times, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Green; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Green, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Green, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, [change to Green, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice] 3 times, change to Green, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: with Blue; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) 3 times, [change to Blue, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) 3 times] 3 times, change to Blue, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 6: ss into the 2 ch-sp; 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Blue, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Blue, 1 ch, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

2. Flower chain

With Cream and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Purple; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, [(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch) in the next 3 ch-sp] 3 times, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Cream; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Pink, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Cream, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 5: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Purple, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Pink, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, ss intop top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

3. Tic-tac-toe

With Blue and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Green; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, [(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch) in the next 3 ch-sp] 3 times, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Pink; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Pink, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Pink, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, [change to Pink, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice] 3 times, change to Pink, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 5: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Pink, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Green, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Pink, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

4. Diagonal boxes: 

With Cream and 3 mm hook, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch) 3 times in ring, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Blue; join in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Cream; join in the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, [change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp] 3 times, change to Cream, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 2 ch-sp, 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, ss intop top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: with Turquoise; join in the 2 ch-sp; 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, 1 ch, ss into top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 6: ss into the 2 ch-sp; 3 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the same sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, 1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in the next 2 ch-sp, change to Blue, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, change to Cream, (1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp) twice, change to Turquoise, 1 ch, 3 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, ss intop top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

Upcoming Workshops for September and beginning October:

Clarens2good hope quilter's gild

Have a wonderful week!

Kind regards

Karen Adendorff

 

Blokonderbaadjie: Vrouekeur 7 September 2018

reghoekonderbaadjie

Daar was soveel navrae na ‘n eenvoudige blokonderbaadjie dat ek genoodsaak was om een vir julle te ontwerp. Dit is ‘n baie maklike en eenvoudige patroon wat enige hekelaar sal kan hekel. Die baadjie is gedoen in Nurturing Fibres  se Eco-cotton en is heerlik vir die koel lenteweer.

Onthou ook die naweek se Mosaïekel-werkswinkel in Pretoria:

Print

Hoop om baie van julle te sien, want dit is ‘n heerlike, kreatiewe sessie!

Groete en lekker hekelweek.

Karen

Blokbolero in LIG September 2018

finaal 1

Hekel hierdie bolero, gedoen in Nurturing Fibres se Eco-fusion, deur die blokke op ‘n interessante manier aanmekaar te heg. Die patroon het duidelike stap-vir-stap foto’s van die blokpatroon in asook diagramme vir die vashekel van die blokke.

Then I want to share the lovely work and colours of two Lykke Squares done by two lovely crochet friends. The first one is done by Vinni, who is also the owner of the lovely Vinni-yarn series. She made a beautiful cushion from her lovely blues.

The other version is done by Andria Odendaal and she used all her rich colour leftover yarns. Her Lykke Square will be a wall hanging.

krans (6)

Please feel free to share your versions of the Lykke Square on acaden@mweb.co.za. Happy crochet week!

Karen Adendorff

Vrolike mus uit Tibet: Vrouekeur 17 Augustus 2018

mus1

Ek was so geïnspireer deur die vrolike motiewe van die weefwerk van Tibet dat ek besluit het om ‘n kindermus te ontwerp met van hierdie vrolike elemente. Die mus bestaan uit ‘n klomp verskillende steke met ‘n strook tapisserie-hekelwerk. Dan kan die mus verder met eenvoudige borduurwerk versier word.

mus2

Geniet ook die Gratis patroon op Vrouekeur se webwerk: http://www.vrouekeur.co.za – Veeldoelige sjaal.

 

Lykke Square CAL final: 31-43

krans 2 (3)

Abbreviations for rows 31- 43:

beg = begin, ch st = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, lp = loop, rep = repeat, rnd = round, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch, trtr = triple treble stitch

Triple treble stitch:

  1. Wrap the yarn three times over hook.
  2. Insert the hook in next stitch.
  3. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the loop of the work leaving five loops on the hook.
  4. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
  5. Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook. Repeat this step.
  6. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

 Picot: 3 ch, ss in the 1st ch.

Pattern:

Rnd 31: with Purple Pink; join in the 2nd sc of the corner 11 sc between two spike sts, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 3 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, *1 sc in the next 9 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 3 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc.

rdte 31 begin copy

rnd31

Rnd 32: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 2 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, *1 sc in the next 9 sc, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 tr in the the next 2 sts, 2 tr tog over the next 3 sts (the centre st is skipped), 1 tr in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 6 sts, 1 hdc in the next 6 sts; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 33: with Baby Yellow; join in the 5th sc, 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same st, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 18 times, 1 ch, skip 1 st, * (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next sc, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 18 times, 1 ch, skip 1 st; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 33

Rnd 34: with Wine; join in any sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in evey sc and in every 1 ch-sp with (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in every 3 ch-corner-sp to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 35: with Baby Yellow, join in 3 ch-sp, 6 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), 1 dc in the same sp, 1 dc in in every sc and (1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc) in every 3 ch-corner-sp, ss in 3rd of beg-6 ch.

Corners:

Row 36: with Purple Pink; join in 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same sp, 2 sc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 20 dc, (8 ch, ss in the same st) 3 times, 1 sc in the next 19 dc, 2 sc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, turn.

rnd 36

Row 37: 1 ch, skip 1 st sc, 2 sc tog over the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 15 sc, (3 ch, 1 sc in the in the next 8 ch-lp) 3 times, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 15 sc, 2 sc tog over the next 2 sc, turn. Fasten off.

rnd 37

Row 38 (RS): with Raspberry; 3 ch, 2 dc tog over the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next 10 sc, 4 dc in the next 3 ch-sp, 4 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, 4 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 4 dc in the next 3 ch-sp, skip 3 sc, 1 dc in the next 10 sc, 3 dc tog over next 3 sts (skip last st). Fasten off.

rnd 38

Row 39 (RS): with Blue Canard; skip 1st 3 ch, 3 ch in the next st, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, 3 ch, skip 5 dc, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, (2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, 3 ch, skip 5 dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, 3 dc tog over the next 3 sts, skip last st. Fasten off.

Row 40 (RS): with Wine; skip 1st 3 ch, 3 ch in the next st, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, 3 dc tog over the next 3 sts, turn.

rnd 40

Row 41 (RS): 3 ch, 1 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, skip next sc, 1 tr in the next sc, 4 ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 4 ch, trtr in the same sp, picot, 4 ch, 1 tr in the same sp, 4 ch, skip 8 sc, 1 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, ss in the last st, turn.

Row 42 (RS): 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st (1st ss), 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the picot, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 4 sc in the next 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the last 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the last st. Fasten off.

Follow rows 36-42 for the other 3 corners.

Last rnd: Complete the last round with Peach dc stitches and the corners with (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in every 3 ch-corner-sp.

laaste rdte

Now the square is ready to be blocked. Tadaaa!

I sincerely hope you enjoyed the pattern. Please share your final work with me. It is always makes me happy to see everyone’s colour interpretation of the same pattern.

There will be more patterns to come in the near future!

Enjoy the weekend!

Karen

 

Reghoekonderbaadjie: Vrouekeur 3 Augustus 2018

 

reghoek3reghoek2reghoek1

 

In hierdie week se Vrouekeur, deel ek die immergewilde reghoekonderbaadjie wat maklik vir verskillende groottes aangepas kan word en ook op veelsydige maniere gedra kan word. Ek het met Elle se Alula gespeel, maar ek dink dat ‘n gare met gewig soos bamboes baie mooi vir hierdie patroon sal werk aangesien dit mooier drapeer. Nietemin, bied Alula bietjie warmte vir kouer weer, maar ‘n katoen- of bamboes weergawe is beter vir koel somermaande.

Ek hoop julle geniet die patroon. Die steke is basiese hekelsteke sodat almal die patroon met gemak kan hekel.

Lekker week en heerlik hekel!

Groete Karen Adendorff

Lykke Square CAL: 21-30

rnd 30 voorblad

Abbreviations for rounds 21-30:

beg = begin, ch st = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch

Stitch explanations:

Spike stitch

  1. Insert the hook through the work at the place indicated by the pattern.
  2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull the loop to the front.
  3. Complete the stitch as usual. Do not pull the yarn too tight or it will deform the work.

Pattern:

Rnd 21: with Wine; join in the 1st tr, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st and in the next 8 tr, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next 9 tr, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 22: with Blue Canard; join in 1st of the previous rnd (1st of the shell); 2 ch (= 1 hdc); 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over the next 3 sc (skip the sc in between), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over next 2 sc (skip sc behind), 1 dc in the next sc, *1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over the next 3 sc (skip the sc in between), 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 1 hdc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc tog over next 3 sc (skip sc in between), 1 dc in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-2 ch. Fasten off.

round 22

rnd 22

Rnd 23: with Purple Pink; join in the 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 dc in the next ch, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 sc in the next ch) 3 times, 1 sc in the same 3 ch-sp, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next 23 sts, skip 1 sc, *(1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 6 ch, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 dc in the next ch, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 sc in the next ch) 3 times, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next 23 sts, skip 1 sc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 23

Rnd 24: with Blue Canard; join in the 1st leaf point, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 3 ch, skip 6 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 7 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch, *1 sc in the next leaf point, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 6 ch, 1 sc in the next leaf point, 3 ch, skip 6 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 7 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 24

Rnd 25: again with Blue Canard; join in the 1st 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, 4 dc in the same sp, 5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, 3 ch, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, (5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp) twice, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, skip 2 sc, *(5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp) twice, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, 3 ch, 8 dc in the next 6 ch-sp, (5 dc in the next 3 ch-sp) twice, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, skip 2 sc; rep from * to end, ss in top of the beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

rnd25

Rnd 26: with Baby Yellow; join in any st, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in every sc and in every dc and (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in every 3 ch-sp to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 26

Rnd 27: with Peach; join the 3 ch-sp, 6 ch, 1 dc in the same sp, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc, 5 dc tog over the next 5 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc, *(1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc, 5 dc tog over the next 5 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc) 5 times, 1 dc in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in the 3rd of the beg-6 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 28: with Baby Yellow, join in the 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, (1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp) 6 times, 3 sc tog over next 3 sts, (1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc) 6 times, *(1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch-sp, (1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp) 6 times, 3 sc tog over next 3 sts, (1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc) 6 times; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc.

Rnd 29: with Sunshine, join in the 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same sp, skip 1 sc, (5 dc in the the next sc, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, skip 2 sc) 6 times, 5 dc in the next sc, skip 1 sc, *1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, skip 1 sc, (5 dc in the the next sc, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, skip 2 sc) 6 times, 5 dc in the next sc, skip 1 sc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc.

Rnd 30: with Raspberry, join in the sc on corner point, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, (1 sc in the next 5 dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc) 6 times, 1 sc in the next 5 dc, *1 sc in the next sc, (1 sc in the next 5 dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc) 6 times, 1 sc in the next 5 dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 30 voorblad

Enjoy!!!!!

Regards Karen Adendorff

Lykke Square CAL: 11-20

rnd 20

Here are the following pattern instructions for the next 10 rounds. Please share your progress in photos with me. I always love to see different colour interpretations of the same pattern.

Abbreviations for rounds 11-20:

beg = begin, ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, lp = loop, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch

Rnd 11: with Blue Canard; join in 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 sc in the same sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc, (1 hdc, 2 ch, 1 hdc) in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc, *3 sc in the the next 3 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc, (1 hdc, 2 ch, 1 hdc) in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next 8 dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd11

Rnd 12: with Purple Pink; join in the 1st sc, 3 ch (= 1st dc), 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc in the next 2 sc, 10 ch (loop behind the petal), *2 dc in the next 3 sc, 10 ch; rep from * tot end, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

rnd 12

Rnd 13: with Sunshine; join with sc around the 1st tr of rnd 7, 1 sc around the next tr of rnd 7, 18 ch, * 1 sc around the next tr of rnd 7, 1 sc around the next tr of rnd 7, 18 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd13

Rnd 14: with Baby Yellow; join in the 10 ch-lp of rnd 12, 1 ch, 10 sc in the 10 ch-lp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, *10 sc in next the 10 ch-lp, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next dc together with 18 ch-lp of rnd 13, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 2 dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd14close up

rnd14

Rnd 15: with Purple Pink; join in 1st sc after the small flower, 3 ch (= 1st dc), 1 dc in the next 13 dc, 2 ch, 1 sc in the middle 3 ch-sp (middle small flower), 2 ch, skip next (sc, 3 ch, 1 sc = next small flower), *1 dc in the next 14 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc in the middle 3 ch-sp (middle small flower), 2 ch, skip next (sc, 3 ch, 1 sc = next small flower); rep from * to end, ss in top of 3 ch-sp. Fasten off.

rnd 15 close up

rnd15

Rnd 16: with Baby Yellow; join in the 1st 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, 2 sc in the same sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc together with 2 ch-sp of the petal, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, *2 sc in the next 2 ch- sp, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next 6 dc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc together with 2 ch-sp of the petal, 1 sc in the next 6 dc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 16 close up

rnd 16

Rnd 17: with Wine; join in any sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, *1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd17

Rnd 18: with Baby Yellow; join in any sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd18

Rnd 19: with Peach, join in sc just after the petal, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 6 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, *1 sc in the next 7 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 3 ch, skip 2 sc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 19

Rnd 20: with Peach again, join in the 3 ch-sp before 7 sc-gp, 4 ch (= 1st tr), 8 tr in the same sp, 1 ch, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, 9 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, *9 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, skip 3 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch, 9 tr in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-4-ch. Fasten off.

rnd 20

 

Rosetkombers: Vrouekeur 20 Julie 2018

rosetkombers

rosetkombers2

Die rosetkombers in hierdie week se uitgawe van die Vrouekeur, gebruik ‘n motief uit my nuutste boek, “Hekel teëlmotiewe met ‘n verskil” of “Crochet tile motifs with a difference”.

krans 1

Ek het slegs die groot motief gebruik en die res van die kombers herontwerp.  Die patroon in die Vrouekeur sluit die diagram in om dit makliker te maak vir die wat verkies om diagramme te lees. Dit is ‘n gevorderde patroon, maar nie so ingewikkeld dat dit nie bemeester kan word nie. Ek hoop dat julle die patroon geniet en nog ‘n moontlikheid sien waarop die teëlmotiewe aangewend kan word.

krans 2

Ek hoop die patroon gee julle hope vreugde en geniet die hekel! Indien daar enige vrae is, rig dit aan my by acaden@mweb.co.za.

Groete

Karen Adendorff

 

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Lykke Square CAL: 1-10

Lykke means ‘happiness’ in Danish and I did the pattern after I read “The little book of Lykke” by Meik Wiking. The book inspired me to search for the small things that make me happy and to let go of the things that restrict my creativity. I abandoned quite a lot of social media platforms and stick to the ones that promote creativity and positive thinking. It was maybe not the best decision businesswise but the best for a creative soul that needs sanity and an environment free from negativity. I hope you enjoy the pattern as I did and feel free to ask when you need some assistance.

This pattern is ideal for a centre focus for a bedspread, small table cloth of large cushion.

This week we start with rounds 1-10. The CAL consists of 43 rounds. So week 2 will be 11-20, week 3 will be 21-30 and week 4 will be from 31-43.

It is written in American Crochet Terminology.

 Difficulty: Relative easy, but not for beginner.

 Materials:

  • Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK (50 g-balls): Because I used all my left overs from different balls, it is difficult to determine the exact quantities of each colour, but I will indicate the colours that I have used in the square:

Purple Pink , Raspberry, Peach, Baby Yellow, Blue Canard, Sunshine and Wine

  • 3 mm crochet hook

Size:

52 cm x 52 cm but it may be larger if your tension is looser.

Abbreviations for row 1-10:

beg = begin, ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch, tog = together, tr = treble stitch

Pattern:

With Purple Pink and 3 mm hook, work 6 ch, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch (= 1st dc), 15 dc in the ring = 16 dc. Fasten off.

rnd 1

Rnd 2: with Raspberry; join in any dc, 4 ch (= 1st dc + 1 ch), (1 dc, 1 ch) in every dc to end. Fasten off.

rnd 2

Rnd 3: with Peach; join in any dc, 6 ch (= 1st dc + 3 ch), 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, *(1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc) in the next dc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in 3rd of beg-6 ch. Fasten off.

rnd3

Rnd 4: with Baby Yellow, join in 3 ch-sp, (1 sc, 1 ch, 1sc) in the same sp, 3 ch, 5 dc tog over the next 5 dc, 3 ch, *(1 sc, 1 ch, 1sc) in the next 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, 5 dc tog over the next 5 dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 4 close up

rnd 4

Rnd 5: with Blue Canard; join in the eye loop of the 5 dc tog, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 ch, 6 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, * 1 sc in the next dc tog st, 1 ch, 6 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd5

Rnd 6: with Raspberry; join in the 1st dc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 5 dc, 1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next 6 dc, 1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 hdc in the next sc,1 hdc in the next 1 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd 6

Rnd 7: with Blue Canard; join in the 3rd hdc, 1 ch, *[(1 sc in the next 8 sts, 2 tr tog (1 tr in 3 ch-sp of rnd 4 and 2nd tr in next 3 ch-sp of rnd 4) (skip the hdc behind the st)]; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd7

Rnd 8: with Baby Yellow; join the 1st sc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, (2 dc in the next sc) twice, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 sc in the last sc, 2 ch, skip 2 tr tog, *1 sc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, (2 dc in the next sc) twice, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 sc in the last sc, 2 ch, skip 2 tr tog; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc. Fasten off.

rnd8

Rnd 9: with Peach, join in the 2 ch-sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 2 nd ch from hook and in the next 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, 5 ch, skip (1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc), 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 5 ch, skip (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), *(1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc in the 2 nd ch from hook and in the next 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 2 ch-sp, 5 ch, skip (1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc), 1 sc in the next 2 dc, 5 ch, skip (2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc); rep from * to end, ss in beg-sc. Fasten off.

rdte 9

Rnd 10: with Raspberry; join in the 1st ch (of the 5 ch-petal point), 3 ch (= 1st dc), 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc in the next 3 ch, 1 ch, 2 dc in the next 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8, 3 ch, skip 2 sc of rnd 9, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8, *2 dc in the next 4 ch (the 5 ch-petal point), 1 ch, 2 dc in the next 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8, 3 ch, skip 2 sc of rnd 9, 1 sc in the next 2 dc of rnd 8; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch. Fasten off.

rdte 10 close up

rdte10

Until next week… happy crochet!

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Fairisle stewelkouse: Vrouekeur 6 Julie 2018

Leg warmersklein

In hierdie week se Vrouekeur, is my bont, warm stewelkouse-patroon – perfek vir die koue weer. Dit is gehekel met Nurturing Fibres SuperTwist DK 100% Merino in hulle pragtige kleure. Natuurlik kan dit ook in enige ander dubbelbreidraad gehekel word.

Die kouse bestaan uit ‘n verskeidenheid interessante patroonsteke en dit maak dat daar geen vervelige hekelwerk is nie. Die steke behoort nie moeilik te wees nie, maar ek heg wel ‘n diagram aan van die spykertrossie wat vir party hekelaars nog nuut of vreemd mag wees. Ek hoop julle geniet die patroon en stuur gerus foto’s van julle klaar kouse na acaden@mweb.co.za. Ek maak graag ‘n fotogalery en deel dit met almal.

Spykertrossie

Lekker hekel die week!

Karen Adendorff

 

GRATIS: Kry ook die gratis Mandala Matpatroon op Vrouekeur se webblad: http://www.vrouekeur.co.za. Vir die wat hom in die verlede gehekel het, en dalk vrae mag hê oor die patroon. Ek het wel ‘n aanpassing in rdte 18 gemaak wat nou op die patroon op webblad aangedui aangebring is.

mat finaal klein

 

 

 

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Angel Wings

This my special thank you free pattern for all the support the past year. It was a tough year for me and I really want to thank each and everyone who supported me and motivated me when I needed strength to carry on. I am going to take a break for the rest of December and will see you in the New Year. May you have a blessed festive season!

What you will need:

Vinnis Colours Nikkim in Natural and 3 mm crochet hook

Sugar:water (50:50) solution, starch or a solution of wood glue and a little bit of water

Abbreviations (American terminology):

beg – begin, ch – chain stitch, dc – double crochet stitch, cl – cluster, gp – group, hdc – half double crochet stitch, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet stitch, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, st(s) – stitch(es), tog – together, tr – treble stitch

Size: 42 cm in length

Pattern:

With Natural, crochet 8 ch, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 16 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc.

Vlerke 1

Rnd 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 sc, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

vlerke 3

Rnd 3: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 5 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 dc, 5 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

vlerke 4

Rnd 4: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch, *1 dc in the same st and in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

vlerke 5

Rnd 5: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch, *1 dc in the same st and in the next dc, 3 ch, 3 dc-cl in the same st, 1 ch, 1 dc in the next 1 ch-sp, 1 ch, 3 dc-cl in the next dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

vlerke 7

Rnd 6: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 3 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the next dc, 3 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 dc, 3 ch, (1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr) in the next dc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 7: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, *1 sc in the next 2 dc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 2 sc in the next 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next tr, 3 sc in the next 3 ch-sp; rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc.

vlerke 9

 

From here the wing point is formed:

Row 1: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, (3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc) 10 times, 3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc, in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, turn.

Row 2: ss in next 3 sts and into 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *4 ch, 1 sc in the next 3 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 10 ch-sps, turn.

vlerke10

Row 3: ss into 4 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *5 ch, 1 sc in the next 4 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 9 ch-sps, turn.

Row 4: ss into 5 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 8 ch-sps, turn.

Row 5: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 7 ch-sps, turn.

Row 6: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 6 ch-sps, turn.

Row 7: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 5 ch-sps, turn.

Row 8: 6 ch, 1 sc in the 1st ch-sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end, 3 ch, 1 dc in the last sc = 6 ch-sps, turn.

Row 9: ss into 3 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 5 ch-sps, turn.

Row 10: rep row 8.

Row 11: rep row 9.

Row 12: ss into 6 ch-sp, 1 sc in the same sp, *6 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end = 4 ch-sps, turn.

Row 13: 5 ch, 1 sc in the 1st ch-sp, *5 ch, 1 sc in the next 6 ch-sp; rep from * to end, 2 ch, 1 dc in the last sc = 5 ch-sps, turn.

Row 14: rep row 12.

Row 15: rep row 13.

Row 16: rep row 12.

Row 17: 3 ch, (4 dc in next 5 ch-sp) 4 times, 1 dc in last st, turn.

Row 18: 3 ch, 1 dc in next dc, (2 dc tog over next 2 dc, 1 dc in next 2 dc) 4 times, turn.

Row 19: 4 ch, (skip 1 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 1 ch) 5 times, 1 dc in the next dc, turn (leave last dc) = 7 dc.

Row 20: 3 ch, (1 dc in the 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next dc) 6 times, turn = 13 dc.

Row 21: 3 ch, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc, (1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc) 3 times, 1 dc in last st, turn.

Row 22: 3 ch, 1 dc in every st, turn = 9 dc.

Row 23: 4 ch, (skip 1 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 1 ch) 3 times, 1 dc in the next dc, turn.

Row 24: 3 ch, (1 dc in the 1 ch-sp, 1 dc in the next dc) 4 times, turn = 9 dc.

Row 25: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the last 2 dc, turn.

Row 26: 3 ch, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 2 dc tog over the next 2 dc, 1 dc in the last dc, turn.

Row 27: 3 ch, 3 dc tog over next 3 dc, 1 dc in last dc, turn.

Row 28: 3 dc, 2 dc tog over next 2 dc, turn.

vlerke 11

With RS front, work 2 rounds sc around the wing, ending each rnd with ss.

Last rnd: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, *3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc; rep from * to end.

 

 

 

 

 

Beginner Lessons : how to be left-handed and crochet the ‘right'(-handed) way – week 2

This week I will show you the basic stitches. From here on you will be able to do a lot of  stitch patterns and more fancy stitches by using these basic stitches.  In the next lesson I will show you the basics of rounds. 

Basic stitches (working in ROWS)

Please watch and practise with the videos with each stitch in order to see how the right-hand technique is used and use the photos to assist you in how the stitch is made.

Below are the symbols of the basic stitches explained in this lesson as it appears on crochet diagrams.

simbole vir boekejol

The slip stitch (ss) 

Click here to watch the video.

The slip stitch does not have height, but is more a utility stitch mostly used to combine rounds.

  1. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the next chain of the first chain from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.
  2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
  3. Draw the yarn through both loops while one loop stays on the hook.

glipsteek 1jpg

glipsteek 2

Single crochet stitch (sc) 

Click here to watch the video.

The single crochet stitch is the shortest stitch.

  1. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 2nd chain (in order to have the height of 1 chain, but it DOES not count as the first stitch) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

kortbeen 1 kortbeen 2

2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

3. Pull the yarn through the same opening,  leaving 2 loops on the hook.

4. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

5. Draw the yarn through both loops on the hook while one loop stays on the hook.

kortbeen 3 kortbeen laaste

When doing the next row, make 1 chain stitch and turn the work.

Make 1st single crochet in the first opening below both the upper loops.

ALL the single crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

 

Half double crochet (hdc) 

Click here to watch the video.

  1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

hlb1

Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 3rd chain (in order to have the height of 2 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

3. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 3 loops on the hook.

4. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

hlb2 hlb3

Draw the yarn through all three loops on the hook while one loop stays on the hook.

When doing the next row, make 2 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st half double crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st half double crochet stitch.

 ALL the half double crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

 

Double crochet (dc) 

Click here to watch the video.

  1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
  2. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 4th chain (in order to have the height of 3 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

lb1a

3. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

4. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 3 loops on the hook.

5. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

6. Draw the yarn through two loops on the hook.

lb2

7. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

8. Draw the yarn through last two loops on the hook.

lb 3 lb4

When doing the next row, make 3 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st double crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st double crochet stitch.

 ALL the double crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

Treble crochet (tr)

Click here to watch the video.

  1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
  2. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 5th chain (in order to have the height of 4 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

dsl1a

3. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

4. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 4 loops on the hook.

5. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

6. Draw the yarn through two loops while 2 loops stay on the hook.

dsl2

7. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

8. Draw the yarn through next two loops on the hook.

dsl3

9. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

10. Draw the yarn through last two loops on the hook.

When doing the next row, make 4 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st treble crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st treble crochet stitch.

ALL the treble crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

For the larger stitches, the stitch pattern repeats in the same relationships.

You can also refer to my books for more complete step by steps of all the stitches, fancy stitches and patterns as well as techniques.

 

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Blokhulp met Sigeunertop-patroon

Ek ervaar dat mense probleme ondervind om die patrone reg te verstaan of dat hulle sukkel om patrone te lees. Dit lyk amper of dié ‘n werkswinkel kan word! Ek het dit daarom goedgedink om die blokke se foto’s te plaas sodat julle die blokke kan visualiseer terwyl julle dit hekel of die patroon lees.

Die blokpatrone herhaal deurgaans deur die top, dus as jy die al die beginblokke onder die knie het, is die res maklik. As jy vind dat jou aantal rye korrek is, maar dat jou blok nie pas nie, kan dit wees dat jou spanning nie konsekwent is nie. Glo my, dit gebeur gereeld met patrone wat blokke in verskillende patroonsteke het. Pas dan jou aantal rye aan tot die blok pas.

Ek het weer deur elke blokpatroon gegaan en by slegs 2 blokke het ek korreksies aangebring wat dan by die blok aangedui word. Ek vra om verskoning vir die ongerief, maar kan jou waarborg dat die ‘tikfoute’ nie jou top gaan op’stuff’ nie. Dit is menslike foute wat maar insluip omdat dit ‘n baie omvangryke patroon is. Ek laat alles kontroleer, maar daar is altyd die moontlikheid dat iets oorgesien word. Ek sal altyd onthou hoe ek my verhandeling vir my meestersgraad ingehandig het, nadat 5 mense dit gekontroleer het. Die uiteinde – die eksaminator het 15 spelfoute gekry! Tot vandag toe, weet ek nie hoe dit oorgekyk is nie, maar dit gebeur.

Ek vra vriendelik dat indien jy vashaak met ‘n patroon om my persoonlik te inbox of ‘n epos na my te stuur by acaden@mweb.co.za. 90% van die kere uit my ervaring in afgelope 10 jaar van patrone skryf, is dit omdat patrone nie reg gelees word nie. Ek help graag en die wat my werkswinkels bygewoon het, sal weet dat ek ‘n geduldige leermeester is.

Hier is elke blok se patroon:

Blok 1:

IMG_4463

Blok 2:

IMG_4464

Blok 3:

IMG_4465

Blok 4:

IMG_4466

Blok 5:

IMG_4467

Blok 6: korreksie:

1ste ry: 1 lb in 6de ks vanaf pen, *1 ks, slaan 1 ks oor, ….

IMG_4468

Blok 7:

IMG_4469

Blok 8: korreksie:

Herh ry 2-6 nog 2 keer en dan ry 2-3 nog een keer = 18 rye in totaal.

IMG_4470

Blok 9: Korreksie: volg patroon en hekel 11 rye. IMG_4471

Blok 10:

IMG_4472

Blok 11:

IMG_4473

Blok 12:

IMG_4474

Blok 13:

IMG_4475

Blok 14:

IMG_4476

Blok 15:

IMG_4477

Blok 16: IMG_4478

Blok 17:

IMG_4479

Blok 18:

IMG_4480

Blok 19:

IMG_4481

Blok 20:

IMG_4482

Blok 21:

IMG_4483

Blok 22: IMG_4484

Blok 23: IMG_4485

Blok 24:

IMG_4486

Blok 25:

IMG_4487

Blok 26:

IMG_4488

Blok 27:

IMG_4489

Blok 7 agter:

IMG_4491

Blok 8 agter:

IMG_4490

 

Volle rugkant van top:

18697992_10209609736982422_7994478404957026466_n

 

Moroccan Square Project Borders

After you have finished joining your squares you might run into trouble finding a suitable border for the finished project as the sides of each square has 29 stitches.

The best way to resolve this is to create a basic loop border from which you can elaborate further or leave it simple as it is. I have given two variations on the simple loop border. It is however a challenge to write these borders clear and understandable enough to follow, but hopefully the photo’s will clearly illustrate the pattern. I basically explained the basic pattern that repeats itself on all the sides as well as the corner pattern.

Abbreviations (American Terminology):

beg = begin, ch = chain, cl = cluster, dc = double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch

The simple loop border

IMG_4223

Start at the top right corner space of top right square:

Base rnd 1: 1 ch, *(1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc) in the sp, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 14 times, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next corner sp of the same square, 1 ch, **1 sc in the corner sp of the next square, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 14 times, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next corner sp of the same square, 1 ch; rep from ** up to the last corner space of the squares and rep from * again for the next side and the other 2 sides, ss in the beg-sc.

Loop rnd 2: ss into the 1 ch-sp, *(1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the corner sp, (3 ch, skip 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next ch-sp) up to the last last sp before corner sp, 3 ch, rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc.

Rnd 3: 1 ch, (3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc) in every corner sp and 4 sc in every other 3 ch sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Delicate border

 IMG_4219

Follow the simple loop pattern for rnd 1 and 2.

Rnd 3: ss into the corner 3 ch-sp, 7 ch, 1 dc in the same sp, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in every 3 ch-sp and (1 dc, 4 ch, 1 dc) in every corner ch-sp to end, ss in 3rd of beg-7 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the corner 4 ch-sp, 1 ch, [(1 sc, 3 ch) 3 times, 1 sc] in the same sp, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in every 2 ch-sp and [(1 sc, 3 ch) 3 times, 1 sc] in every 4 ch-corner sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Broad border (for blankets, etc)

 IMG_4220

Follow the simple loop pattern for rnd 1 and 2.

 

Rnd 3: ss into the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (1 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc-cl) in the same sp, (2 dc-cl, 2 ch, 2 dc-cl) in every 3 ch-sp and (2 dc-cl, 4 ch, 2 dc-cl) in every corner-sp to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 4 ch-corner sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, *3 ch, 1 sc in sp between next 2 cl, **3 ch, skip 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in sp between next 2 cl; rep from ** up to the coner sp, 3 ch and (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in 4 ch-corner sp, rep from * for the other sides, ss in beg-sc.

Rnd 5: ss into the 3 ch-corner sp, 1 ch, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in the same sp, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in every ch-sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Moroccan Square #9

 

This is the last square in the Moroccan Square series. It has a central pattern and the rest of the square is worked at the back of the central motif. Very easy square and also using back post stitches.

Next week I will share borders that can be used for your projects. I sincerely hope that you enjoyed the patterns. I have another series in the pipeline, but I will keep you posted. My book on different squares will also be released in May 2017 and I will share the info shortly.

Click here for free pattern:

The Afrikaans version is also on the site at http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

 

Moroccan Square #8

blok8fin.jpg

The dense interesting centre is formed by cluster and chain layers that gradually develops into and open lacy structure. I have used all the basic stitches but nothing complicated. It is an easy pattern with a lovely motif.

Get the free pattern by clicking on this link

The Afrikaans pattern is aslo available on the same website http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Moroccan Square #6

At first glance, the square looks a little bit more challenging than the previous squares. The only reason for this is that you work stitches in front and at the back of the rounds. At the end it forms a network of colour and layers. I also used front post stitches and clusters. By following the diagram, it will be really easy to do.

TIP: the square tends to be larger than the other squares – change to a slightly smaller hook if it is the case.

Click on link for free pattern:

The Afrikaans is also available on www.vrouekeur.co.za.

blok 6fin

Moroccan Square #5

blok-5-fin

The combination of open spaces works well with the use of puff stitches and clusters. The centre four loop flower or motif is a main feature of most of the moroccan tiles. Instead of filling up the leaves of the flower, I tried to leave it open to make cross but also to link up with the lace work of rounds 8-10.

Click on the link for the free pattern:

The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on the same website.

Moroccan Square #4

This one is, in my opinion, the easiest of all the squares. I have used all the basic stitches, but also included clusters and popcorn stitches. The corners are formed working three double treble crochet stitches together in the designated stitches as explained in the pattern. By following the diagram it should not be a problem.

blok-4-fin

Use the  link to the pattern in American crochet Terminology.

The Afrikaans is also available on the same website.

 

 

 

Moroccan square #3

This is by far my favourite square with a dainty lacy look. The lacy effect is due to the chains that are used throughout the patten with lots of open spaces. In this square the centre flower motif is formed by working at the back of the stitches by folding the previous round to the front and thus creating layered work.

Follow the link for the free pattern:

http://www.vrouekeur.co.za/english/english-patterns/moroccan-crochet-square-3

The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on the same website http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Moroccan Square #2

This square is very easy and simple – a little bit easier then the previous one. It uses all the basic stitches and make use of picots to create a frilled effect in the centre. Enjoy!

blok-2-fin

Pattern available at following link:

http://www.vrouekeur.co.za/english/english-patterns/moroccan-crochet-square-2

Pattern also available in Afrikaans on http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Moroccan Square #1

This the first free Moroccan square pattern in the 9 squares in 9 weeks series. I have worked the squares in Vinnis Nikkim 100% cotton DK, but please feel free to it in any DK yarn of choice in the colours you prefer. I did the squares because of the stash I built up during the years of making books and writing patterns, but I must admit I love the dense texture of Vinnis in squares. I will love to see squares in other yarn as well. There are so many wonderful options and brands to choose from. The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on Vrouekeur’s website and are illustrated with diagrams.

Print

The pattern is rated relative easy – with the assumption that you know the basic crochet stitches. In this pattern you will also use the puff stitch and the spike stitch.

Please use the following link to the free pattern: http://www.vrouekeur.co.za/english/english-patterns/moroccan-crochet-square-1.

Enjoy it and show it!

My Storybook Christmas Tree

imageThis pattern makes beautiful gift tags, bunting, tree decorations or book marks. I made my tree in MoYa 100 % cotton DK yarn from my stash with a 3 mm hook. This pattern is written in between my holiday obligations on request of whole lot of facebookers. So if there is a written mistake please bear with me as I am using holiday time and have limited testing opportunities. Hopefully everything is in order.

Abbreviations (American Terminology):
beg – begin, ch – chain stitch, cl – cluster, dc – double crochet, hdc – half double crochet, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, tr – treble stitch

With colour 1, crochet 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: 1 ch, 6 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc.
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, *1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc = 6 loops.
Rnd 3: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 sc in the next 3 ch sp, *1 sc in the next sc, 3 sc in the next 3 ch sp; rep from *to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.
Rnd 4: with colour 2; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, 2 tr in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, *1 sc in the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 2 tr in the next sc, 3 ch, 2 tr in the next sc, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 hdc in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.
Rnd 5: with colour 3; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 2 ch, *1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next dc, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc.
Rnd 6: 1 ch 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 2 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 2 ch, *1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 2 ch, (2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 2 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next cl, 3 ch, (1 sc, picot) in the next picot, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.
Rnd 7: with colour 4: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next sc, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, (1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc, 8ch, 1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, stem: 7 ch, 1 hdc in the 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the nect 2 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch, continue in rnd: 1 sc in the next sc, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, [2 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next picot] twice, 2 ch, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

The ‘Sunflake’ Square

When showing the square to my children and asking them what they would suggest the name should be, they immediately said that it looked like a snowflake lying on a flower. Then my son came up with the name of ‘sunflake’. I thought that it was really clever and creative and it actually sums up the design. The spike stitches in the flower petals give the impression of a ‘snowflake’

I used Vinnis Nikkim 100% cotton DK from my stash with a 3 mm crochet hook.

Abbreviations and Stitch Explanations (American Terminology):

beg – begin, ch – chain, dc – double crochet stitch, dtr – double treble stitch, fdc – front post double crochet, gp – group, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet stitch, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch, tog – together

Spike stitch:

  1. Insert the hook through the work at the place indicated by the pattern.
  2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull the loop to the front.
  3. Complete the stitch as usual. Do not pull the yarn too tight or it will deform the work.

Front post double crochet:

  1. Wrap the yarn over hook, insert hook from right to left around the back of the stem of the next stitch and out at the front again.
  2. Complete the double crochet stitch.

Double treble crochet stitch:

Wrap the yarn three times over hook.
Insert the hook in next stitch.
Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the first loop leaving five loops on the hook.
Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook. Repeat this step.
Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

Pattern: 

With Navy, make 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 11 dc in ring, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: with Sunshine; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 dc in the next dc, *1 sc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Navy; join in the 1st dc, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 4 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc in top of the dc of rnd 1, * 1 sc in the next dc, 4 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st in the base of the next sc in top of the dc of rnd 1; rep from * to end,  ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: with Cloud Blue; join at the back of the spike stitch with sc, 5 ch, *1 sc at the back of the next spike st, 5 ch; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc.

Rnd 5: 1 ch, 5 sc in every 5 ch sp to end, ss in the beg sc.

Rnd 6: 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 5 sc, 1 fdc around sc (behind spike st of rnd 3); rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: with White; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 fdc around next fdc, * 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 1 fdc around next fdc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: with Navy; join in fdc, 1 ch, 2 sc in the same st, (3 dc in the next skipped sc of rnd 7) twice, *2 sc in the next fdc, (3 dc in the next skipped sc of rnd 7)  twice; rep from * to end, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 9: with Sunshine; 3 ch, 1 dc in the next st, 1 ch, *1 dc in the next 2 sts, 1 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg 3 ch = 48 dc. Fasten off.

Rnd 10: with Navy; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch sp, *1 sc in the next 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 1 ch sp; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 11: with Cloud Blue; 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 8 sc, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc) in the next sc; rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 12: with White; join in the 4th sc of the 8 sc gp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st and in the next sc, skip 3 sc, 12 dc in the next 6 ch sp, skip 3 sc, * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, skip 3 sc, 12 dc in the next 6 ch sp, skip 3 sc; rep from * to end; ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 13: with Navy; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 4 sts, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made), 1 sc in the next 3 dc, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made), * 1 sc in the next 9 sts, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made), 1 sc in the next 3 dc, 1 spike st in 6 ch sp of rnd 11, (skip dc behind the spike st just made); rep from * to end, ending with 1 sc in the last 4 sts, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 14: with White; 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc and 2 sc in every spike st to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 15: with Navy; join in sc after 1st 2 sc gp, 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 5 sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 dc in the next 3 sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 dtr in next sc, 6 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 dtr in next sc, 3 ch, skip 4 sc; rep From * to end, ss in beg sc.

Rnd 16: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next 4 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 5 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the next 6 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, *1 dc in the next 5 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 5 sc, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the next 6 ch sp, 1 dc in the next dtr, 3 dc in the next 3 ch sp; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

The Magic Square

This square pattern is really a wonderful square to play with and has many creative possibilities. Not only can different colour combinations change the pattern but also the arrangement of the squares creates different group patterns. Although it is time consuming to crochet the small squares, the rest of the square is very quick and easy, making this square not as difficult as it may look. I hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I did.

Abbreviations and Stitch Explanations (American Terminology): 

beg – begin, ch – chain, dc – double crochet stitch, dtr – double treble stitch, hdc – half double crochet st, rep – repeat, rnd – round, sc – single crochet stitch, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch, tog – together, tr – treble crochet stitch

Double treble crochet stitch:

  1. Wrap the yarn three times over hook.
  2. Insert the hook in next stitch.
  3. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the first loop leaving five loops on the hook.
  4. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
  5. Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook. Repeat this step.
  6. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

 

Treble crochet stitch:

  1. Wrap the yarn twice over hook.
  2. Insert the hook in next stitch.
  3. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through the first loop leaving four loops on the hook.
  4. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two loops.
  5. Wrap the yarn over hook and draw through next two loops on hook.
  6. Wrap the yarn again over hook and draw through two last loops on hook.

 

Pattern: 

IMG_3184.jpg

Start by making 2 simple squares: with colour 1; 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to from a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 8 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc. Fasten off.

img_3185

Rnd 2 (colour 2): 1 ch, 2 sc in every sc to end, ss in the 1st sc = 16 sc. Fasten off.

img_3186

Rnd 3 (colour 3): 1 ch, 1 sc in the the same st, 2 sc in the next sc, *1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc; rep from * tot end, ss in the beg sc = 24 sc.

Rnd 4: 1 ch, *1 sc in the next 5 sc, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in the next sc; rep from * to end. Fasten off.

Continue now by connecting the 2 small squares as follows:

img_3193

Rnd 5: With colour 3, start in the 2 ch sp in the corner of the first square with 1 sc, 6 ch. Now you are going to crochet together a tr, another tr, a dtr and again 2 tr as follows:

img_3196

After the 6 ch made, skip 2 sts, do a tr in the next st, but do not complete it, leave the last 2 loops on the hook, skip 1 st, do a next tr in the next st but do not complete it…

img_3197

do a dtr in the next corner 2 ch sp without completing the last step in the st,

img_3198

move to the other square and skip the corner 2 ch sp, the next dc (of the corner) and 1 sc of this square and do a tr in the next st only up to the last step of the st…

img_3199

Skip 1 st and do a tr in the next st up to the last step, yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

img_3201

6 ch, *(1 sc in the next 2 ch sp,

img_3202

3 ch, skip dc and sc, 1 sc in the next st, 3 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st, 3 ch) twice**, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 6 ch,  (2 tr, 1 dtr, 2 tr) tog in the same way as done previously over the two squares, 6 ch, rep from * to **, ss in the beg-sc.

img_3203

Rnd 6: ss into the 6 ch sp, *(1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dtr) in the same sp, 3 ch, (1 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc) in the next 6 ch sp, (3 ch, 1 sc in the next 3 ch sp) 6 times, 3 ch; rep from * to end,  ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

img_3204

img_3192

I recommend that you block the squares first before joining them. Here are 2 possible groupings of 4 of these squares. Sew the together in the pattern you prefer.

Crochet Series # 5: Spiral & Joining

These two unusual rose patterns are in a class of their own. They are not formed by means of the classical rows that are rolled up or by the traditional layering. It might look daunting at first sight but by following the pattern closely, you will realise that it is quite easy.

Abbreviations and stitch explanations (American Terminology):

ch – chain, dc – double crochet stitch, sc – single crochet stitch, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch, tch – turning chain

Spike stitch:

  1. Insert the hook through the work at the place indicated by the pattern.
  2. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull the loop to the front.
  3. Complete the stitch as usual. Do not pull the yarn too tight or it will deform the work.

#9 Spiral rose

img_3165

The spiral rose is formed by working a flat spiral base of single crochet stitches and then working 3 double crochet stitches around the stems of the single crochet stitches. The rose forms a small tower. It is important to do the base in a larger hook in order to work easier around the stems later on.

Crochet the first part with a larger hook.

Start with 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 8 sc in ring, do not join with ss, but continue in the rnd.

img_3149

 

Rnd 2: (1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 4 times.

Rnd 3: (1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 4 times.

Rnd 4: (1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 4 times, ss in the 1st sc. Fasten off.

img_3151

 

Continue with smaller hook.

Start at the 1st sc and work now in every sc as follows:

Crochet 1 ch around the 1st sc, 3 ch, 2 dc around the same sc, 3 dc around the 2nd sc, 3 dc around the 3rd sc, etc. to end. Fasten off.

img_3154

This is the rose from underneath:

img_3155

# 10 Joined Rose

img_3163

This rose is more open due to a layer that is joined in the centre of the rose. Use the markers and the pattern is quite easy.

Start with 23 ks.

Row 1 (colour 1): 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in the next ch, (1 sc in the next ch, 2 sc in the next ch) 10 times, turn.

img_1745

Row 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, 3 dc in the next sc, (skip 1 sc, 2 dc in the next sc, 3 dc in the next sc) 4 times, skip 2 sc, 5 dc in the next sc, skip 3 sc, place marker in the centre skipped sc, (5 dc in the next sc, skip 3 sc, place marker in the centre of 3 skipped sc) 3 times, 5 dc in the last sc, turn.

img_1746

Row 3 (colour 2): 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, (2 dc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc) 5 times, (2 dc in each of the 3 dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc) 4 times, 2 dc in next 3 dc, 1 sc in tch, turn.

img_1747

Row 4: 1 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 3 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st over next 2 ch (= 1 sc between 2 skipped dc of row 2), [1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 3 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st] 4 times, [1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st] 4 times, 1 sc in the next 2 dc (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 sc in the last sc. Fasten off.

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Row 5 (colour 1): (= short string): join yarn in the 1st st with marker and crochet 3 ch, 4 dc in the same st, (5 dc in the next st with marker) 3 times (= 4 groups of 5 dc), turn.

Row 6 (colour 2): 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, (2 dc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc) 3 times, 2 dc in the next dc, 3 dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc, 1 sc in the tch, turn.

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Row 7: 1 ch, 1 sc in the 1st sc, [1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 spike st over the next 2 ch and between the 2 dc skipped in row 5] 3 times, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, (1 ch, 1 sc in the next dc) 4 times, 1 sc in the next dc, 1 sc in the last sc. Fasten off.

Start with the single scallops, with right side inwards and roll up. End with the double row and sew together at the bottom.

Crochet Rose Series #4: Shabby & Lace

Today I share with you two beautiful roll up rose patterns, which are worked in rows and then rolled up, sewn together to form roses. These roses have an almost vintage classical feel and will make delicate brooches or other accessories.

Abbreviations and stitch explanations (American Terminology):

ch – chain, dc – double crochet stitch, hdc – half double crochet, rep – repeat, sc – single crochet stitch, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, sp – space, st – stitch, tch – turning chain,

Puff stitch:

  1. Wrap the yarn over hook and insert in the next stitch, wrap the yarn over hook and draw yarn the desired length of the puff stitch. You should have three loops on the hook.
  2. Repeat step one in the same stitch twice.
  3. Wrap the yarn over hook and pull through all the loops on the hook.
  4. Wrap the yarn over hook and pull through the loop on the hook to secure the puff stitch.

Picot: 3 ch, ss in the 1st ch

#7 Shabby

This pattern is based on the rose pattern similar on Fionitta.com and the one I have used in my Rose Mandala pattern. I have changed it a bit to make the petals more frilly and something different.

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Start with Pink and make 119 ch.

Row 1: 1 dc in 8th ch from hook, *2 ch, skip 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn. (= 38 sps).

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Row 2: (3 ch, puff st, 3 ch, ss) in the 1st sp, *(ss, 3 ch, puff st, 3 ch, ss) in the next sp; rep from * up to last 12 sps. Fasten off. Join with Green in the dc directly after the petal just completed, [2 ch, 1 sc in the next dc, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next dc, 6 ch, ss in the same sc (forms the leaf loops)], 6 times with the last loop in the tch sp. Fasten off and do not turn work.

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Row 3: Join again with Green with sc at the same place as previous row in the 1st green sc, [(3 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, picot, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc, ) in 6 ch loop, 1 sc in next sc] 6 times. Fasten off.

Roll the rose as follows: start with Pink with right side inside. End with the leaves joining each other perfectly. Pin and sew.

#8 Lace

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This rose is formed with 3 rows. I have changed the colour with each row to create depth and make the rose more interesting.

Start with colour 1 (darkest) and make 56 ch.

Row 1: 1 dc in the 6th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in the next ch; rep from * to end, turn. Fasten off.

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Row 2: with colour 2 (medium): 3 ch, (1 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in the 1st 2 ch sp, *(2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in the next 2 ch sp; rep from * up to the last sp, (2 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in the last sp, turn = 26 2 ch sps). Fasten off.

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Row 3: with colour 3 (lightest): 3 ch, 5 dc in the 1st 2 ch sp, *skip 2 dc, 1 sc between the 4 dc, 6 dc in the next 2 ch sp; rep from * to end, ending with 1 sc in the last st. Fasten off.

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Roll up with right side to the inside and sew together as you roll.

Crochet Rose Series #3: Rose Buds

A rose bud here and there can add some extra awesomeness and reality to your crochet flower arrangement. I found these two lovely rose bud patterns which is a little bit time-consuming because of all the bits and pieces, but really super easy to make. If you want to strengthen the stems, thread some wire through the stems up to the base of the bud.

Abbreviations (American Terminology)

beg – begin(ning), ch – chain stitch, dc – double crochet stitch, hdc – half double crochet stitch, rnd – round, sc – single crochet stitch, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch, tog – together, tr – treble crochet stitch

#5 Small Rose Bud

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Bud:

With pink, start with 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 8 dc in ring, ss in top of beg 3 ch.

Rnd 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in every dc, ss in top of beg 3 ch.

Rnd 3: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next 3 dc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, 1 tr in the next 2 dc. Fasten off.

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Bract:

With green, start with 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 6 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, 2 sc in every sc (= 12 sc), ss in the 1st sc.

Rnd 3-4: 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss in the 1st sc.

Rnd 5: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, ss in the 1st ch (=picot), (1 sc in the next 4 sc, picot) twice, 1 sc in the next 3 sc, ss in the 1st sc. Fasten off.

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Stem:

Start with 18 ch, ss in the 2nd ch from hook and in every ch to end. Fasten off.

Leaf:

Start with 8 ch, and work now on both sides of the chain: 1 sc in the 2nd and 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 dc in the next 3 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the last ch, (carry on on the other side), 1 dc in the next 3 ch, 1 hdc in the next ch, 1 sc in the next ch, ss in the last st. Fasten off.

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Sew the leaf to the stem. Sew the stem to the bract. Place the bud in the the bract and sew to the bract.

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#6 Large Rose Bud

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Bud:

The bud is worked in 3 layers.

Layer 1: With cream, start with 9 ch.

Row 1: 1 dc in the 5th ch from hook, 1 dc in every ch. Fasten off.

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Layer 2: With pink, start with 15 ch.

Row 1:  1 dc in the 5th ch from hook, 1 dc in every ch, turn.

Row 2-3: 3 ch, 1 dc in every dc to end, turn.

Row 4: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, 1 hdc in the next 5 dc, 1 sc in the last 2 sts. Fasten off.

Layer 3: with pink, start with 13 ch.

Row 1: 1 dc in the 5th ch from hook, 1 dc in every ch, turn.

Row 2-4: 3 ch, 1 dc in every dc to end. Fasten off.

Place layer 1 onto layer 2 and fold layer 2 around layer 1 and sew together. Place the 2 layers onto layer 3, fold layer 3 around the 1st two layers and sew together.

Bract:

With green, start with 5 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 14 dc in ring, ss in top of beg 3 ch.

Rnd 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in every dc to end, ss in top of 3 ch.

Rnd 3: (every leaf is worked separately): 3 ch, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, turn.

Rnd 4: 3 ch, dc 2 tog over next 2 dc, turn.

Rnd 5: 3 ch. Fasten off.

Repeat rounds 3-5 four times for each leaf. Darn away all loose ends.

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Stem:

With green, crochet 14 ch.

Row 1: ss in the 2nd ch from hook  and in every ch to end. Fasten off.

Sew the stem to the bract and place the bud in the bract. Sew the bud to the bract at rnd 2 of the bract.

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Crochet Rose Series #2: Lucie & Anna

These two patterns represents the fragile and delicate beauty of my two grandmothers, who are both in their late 90’s. They have a vintage feel to them and are also deep roses, meaning suitable for flower arrangements and not brooches. Both these roses are formed by making loose petals and sewing them together.

Abbreviations (American Terminology):

beg = begin, ch = chain, cl = cluster, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, ss = slip stitch

#3 Lucie

This rose has 16 loose petals – 3 in the darkest colour, 4 in the next colour and 9 in the lightest colour.

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Petal:

Start with 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

1st rnd: 1 ch, 6 sc in ring, ss in the 1st sc.

2nd rnd: 1 ch, 2 sc in every sc, ss in the 1st sc (= 12 sc).

3rd rnd: 1 ch, 1 sc in the 1st sc, 2 sc in the next sc, (1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 5 times, ss in the 1st sc (= 18 sc).

4th rnd: 1 ch, 1 sc in the 1st sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 1 hdc in the next sc, 2 ch, ss in the 1st ch, 1 hdc in the next sc, 1 sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc, (1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) twice, ss in beg 1 ch. Fasten off.

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Fold the centre petal en sew the other 2 dark petals around to the central petal.

Fold the other 4 petals in the same way slightly overlapping each other and sew to the dark petals.

Fold the 4 light petals overlapping each other slightly and sew around the previous 4 petals.

Sew the last 5 petals to the outside of the rose.

#4 Anna

This rose used a lot of yarn and I almost used a whole ball DK (50 g).

The rose has 10 petals.

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Petals:

Start with 5 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

1st rnd: 3 ch, 13 dc in ring, ss in top of 3 ch.

2nd rnd: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc in every dc to end (= 28 dc).

3rd rnd: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 8 dc, skip 2 dc, 6 dc in the next dc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, skip 1 dc, 6 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 9 dc, ss in the 1st sc. Fasten off.

 

Crochet the 2nd and the rest of the petals in the same way up to the end of rnd 2.

3rd rnd: ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in the next 8 dc, skip 2 dc, 6 dc in the next dc, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, skip 1 dc, 6 dc in the next dc, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 2 dc, ss in the 8th sc of the 1st petal, 1 sc in the next 4 dc, ss in the 4th sc of the 1st petal, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, ss in the 1st sc. Fasten off. (2 petals are thus joined together at 2 places).

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Join the other petals the same way.

Roll the petals with right side facing and sew at the bottom together as you roll.

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Crochet Rose Series #1: Twirls and Swirls

For the past six months I was busy with my Rose Mandala Workshops in South Africa and I released the pattern on Ravelry. Please take a look if you are not familiar with the pattern, but here in South Africa it was a huge success and a loved pattern by many.

Together with these workshops, I gave the ladies who attended my workshops an additional bonus of 13 different rose patterns. I have decided to share some of it on my blog, but also to add others not included in those packages. So for the next 5 weeks, I will share 2 rose patterns each week to enjoy and to play with.

Abbreviations (American Terminology):

beg = begin, ch = chain, cl = cluster, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, tch = turning ch, tr = treble

 

Here are the first two patterns:

#1 Twirls

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A flat ribbon is crocheted and the folded with intervals and rolled up to form a rose.

Start with 101 ch.

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *1 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to last ch, 1 sc in the last ch, turn.

Rows 2-6: 1 ch, 1 sc in 1st sc, *1 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in 1 ch sp; rep from * to last sc, 1 sc in last sc, turn. Fasten off after row 6.

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Roll the rose and while rolling, fold the ribbon every few cm in the same direction. Sew at the bottom as you roll it up.

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#2 Swirls

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This rose looks like the shell of a snail and makes a beautiful brooch.

It is done in 2 colours.

Start with the pink or colour 1 and crochet 30 ch, carry on with the grey or colour 2 and crochet 42 ch.

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Row 1: 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each grey (colour 2) ch, carry on with pink (colour 1) and make 1 dc in every next pink (colour 1) ch, turn.

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Row 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in every pink (colour 1) dc, carry on with grey (colour 2) and make 1 dc in every grey (colour 2) dc. Fasten off.

Instead of 2 rows, 4 rows can also be made to make a deeper rose.

 

Fold the strip lengthwise and sew together on all the sides.

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Fold the strip again on the colour join and roll it up together. Sew at the bottom.

 

 

La Petite Fleur Square

I dedicate this square to my little girl, who is indeed my little flower with her fascinating imagination. It is not the mere fact that she is so pretty in my eyes but she simply loves nature and all its hidden beauty  – especially flowers.

I used Vinnis Nikkim 100% Cotton DK in Ballet Pink (colour 1), Pink (Colour 2), Avocado (Colour 3), White (Colour 4) and Kingfisher (Colour 5) and a 3 mm hook for this pattern. The size of the square is approximately 13 x 13 cm.

Abbreviations and stitch explanation (American Crochet terminology): 

beg – begin, ch – chain, dc – double crochet, rnd – round, sc – single crochet, sp – space, ss – slip stitch, st – stitch

Cluster (cl):

  1. Yarn over hook.
  2. Insert hook in next ch or sp and draw up a loop.
  3. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Two loops remain on the hook.
  4. Repeat steps 1-3, yarn over hook and draw through remaining loops on hook.

Pattern:

With colour 1, work 4 ch, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 8 sc in ring, ss in beg sc.

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Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 4 ch, skip 1 sc, (1 sc in the next sc, 4 ch, skip 1 sc) 3 times, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

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Rnd 3: join with colour 2 in 4 ch sp; 1 ch, (1 sc, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 1 sc, 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc, 1 sc) in every 4 ch sp, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

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Rnd 4: join colour 3 at the back of the flower between two petals; 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 10 ch, ss in the same st, 5 ch, (1 sc in the next space between petals, 10 ch, ss in the same st, 5 ch) 3 times, ss in the beg sc.

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Rnd 5: ss into the 1st 10 ch sp, 3 ch, (4 dc, 3 ch, 5 dc) in the same 10 ch sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch sp, 1 ch, [(5 dc, 3 ch, 5 dc) in the next 10 ch sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next 5 ch sp, 1 ch] 3 times, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

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Rnd 6: join colour 4 in 3 ch sp of leaf; 1 ch,  (1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in the next sp before the sc, 1 dc in the sc, 1 dc in sp after the sc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, [(1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, 1 sc in the next 3 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc in the sp before the next sc, 1 dc in the sc, 1 dc in sp after sc, 2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 sc in the next 3 dc] 3 times, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

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Rnd 7: join colour 5 in 5 ch sp; (3 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc cl, 5 ch, 2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the same sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, skip 1 dc, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch, [(2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl, 5 ch, 2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, skip 1 dc, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the next dc, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch] 3 times, ss in top of beg 3 ch.

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Rnd 8: ss into the 1 st 2 ch sp, 1 ch, 2 sc in the same sp, 1 ch, (2 sc, 1 ch, 2 sc) in the next 5 ch sp, 1 ch, 2 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 5 ch, 2 sc in the next 3 ch sp, 5 ch, [(2 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 1 ch, (2 sc, 1 ch, 2 sc) in the next 5 ch sp, 1 ch, 2 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 5 ch, 2 sc in the next 3 ch sp, 5 ch] 3 times, ss in beg sc.

img_2691

Rnd 9: 3 ch, 1 dc in the next sc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in the next ch, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next 5 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next 5 ch sp, [1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in the next ch, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, 1 dc in the next 1 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next 5 ch sp, 1 dc in the next 2 sc, 5 dc in the next 5 ch sp] 3 times, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

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Lace Star motif

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I completed a project for LIG magazine recently, which were bunting made out of star halves. I realised that I subsequently have a new design when trying to complete the star into a whole motif. The challenge was to link them – so I used chain loops between two star points and 3 ch loop links at each star points. The end result was this most beautiful lace star pattern that can be used for blankets and shawls. I sincerely hope that you enjoy this pattern as much as I did in designing it.

I used a 3 mm crochet hook and MoYa double knit 100% cotton yarn, but any cotton yarn will make a delicate lace star.

For this pattern, I used American crochet terminology:

ch = chain, cl = cluster, dc = double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sp = space, sc = single crochet, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch

Colour 1: Start with 4 ch, ss in the 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 11 dc in ring, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

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Rnd 2: with colour 2: 4 ch, *1 dc in the next dc, 1 ch, rep from * to end, ss in 3rd of beg 4 ch. Fasten off.

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Rnd 3: with colour 3: start in 1 ch-sp, 3 ch, 2 dc cl in same sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, *3 dc cl in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, rep from * to end, ss in top of beg 3 ch. Fasten off.

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Rnd 4: with colour 4: join in top of cl, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 5 dc in the next sc, *(1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in next cl, 5 dc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss in 1st sc.

img_2571img_2572

Rnd 5: ss into 3 ch loop, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, skip 2 dc, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in next dc, 3 ch, *1 sc in next 3 ch sp, 3 ch,skip 2 dc, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in next dc, 3 ch, rep from * to end, ss in beg sc.

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Rnd 6: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch, skip 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 5 ch,  (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, *1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, skip 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 5 ch, (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, rep from * to end, ss in beg sc.

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Rnd 7: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 4 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 4 ch, *1 sc in the next sc, 4 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch, (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl, 3 ch, 2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 5 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 4 ch, rep from * to end, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

img_2580

Rnd 8: with new colour: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 4 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 4 ch, *1 sc in the next sc, 4 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 4 ch, rep from * to end, ss in beg sc. img_2581

img_2582

Rnd 9: complete this row for first star – the next stars are joined in this row: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 5 ch, ss in the same st, 4 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, skip next 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 4 ch, *(1 sc, 5 ch, ss in the same st) in the next sc, 4 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the next 3 ch sp, 3 ch, skip next 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the next sc, 4 ch, rep from * to end, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

The following stars are joined in the 5 ch loops by 1 sc, 2 ch, ch through the adjacent 5 ch loop, 2 ch, ss in the same st and at the star points by 1 sc, 1 ch, 1 ch through adjacent 3 ch loop, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same sp.

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Colourful picture frames

Display your loved ones in colourful crochet frames and use all those left over yarns in your stash.

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(Project: Vrouekeur Magazine 2014)

What you need:

Elle Pure Natural Cotton DK (50 g balls): small quantities in different colours

3.5 mm crochet hook

Metal bangles

Photos

Felt material

Glue gun with glue stick or strong craft

Needle, scissors, stitch markers

 

Size of the inner frame

7 cm in diameter

 

Abbreviations (American teriminology)

beg – begin

ch – chain stitch

cl – cluster

dc – double crochet

rep – repeat

rnd – round

sc – single crochet stitch

sp – space

ss – slip stitch

 

Pattern:

Red, turquoise and lime green frame:

 

With 3,5 mm hook and colour 1, crochet 72 (or multiples of 6) sc around bangle, close with ss in 1st sc. Place marker in this stitch, because there is no turning in the rounds.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 1 sc in back loop of every sc, ss in 1st sc.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the back loop of every sc, ss in 1st sc.

Rnd 3: *4 ch, ss in the same st, 1 sc in the back loop of next 6 sc, rep from * to end, ss in beg 4 ch.

Rnd 4: 3 ch, (2 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc) in 4 ch loop, 1 ch, *(3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc) in the next 4 ch loop, 1 ch, rep from * to end, ss in top of beg 3 ch.

Rnd 5: *2 ch, (3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc) in 1 ch sp, 2 ch, 1 sc in the next 1 ch sp, rep from * to end, ending with 1 sc in 1 ch sp. Fasten off.

 

Green and pink frame:

With 3,5 mm hook and colour 1, crochet 80 (or multiples of 10) sc around bangle, close with ss in 1st sc. Place marker in this stitch, because there is no turning in the rounds.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 1 sc in back loop of every sc, ss in 1st sc.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the back loop of every sc, ss in 1st sc.

Rnd 3: *6 ch, skip 4 sc, 1 sc in next st, rep from * to end, ss in beg ch.

Rnd 4: *4 ch, 1 sc in 6 ch loop, (3 ch, 2 dc cl, 3 ch, ss in sc) 3 times in the same sc, 4 ch, 1 sc in next 6 ch loop, 3 ch, ss in 1st ch (= picot), rep from * to end. Fasten off.

 

Orange frame:

With 3,5 mm hook and colour 1, crochet 72 (or multiples of 8) sc around bangle, close with ss in 1st sc. Place marker in this stitch, because there is no turning in the rounds.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 1 sc in back loop of every sc, ss in 1st sc.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the back loop of every sc, ss in 1st sc.

Rnd 3: *5 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc, rep from *to end, ending with ss in beg ch.

Rnd 4: 4 ch, [(1 dc, 1 ch) 3 times, 1 dc] in the same 5 ch loop, *skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, [(1 dc, 1 ch) 4 times, 1 dc in 5 ch loop], rep from * to end, ending with 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ss in 3rd of beg 4 ch. Fasten off.

 

Finishing:

  1. Cut a felt circle with 8 cm diameter.
  2. Cut a photo of 7 diameter.
  3. Glue the photo onto the felt circle.
  4. Stitch the felt circle onto the back of the frame.

 

Knee blanket

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IMG_3610

Carry your cozy blanket with you with this easy pattern, published in Vrouekeur, 2014. Translation done by Vrouekeur Magazine. For the Afrikaans follow http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

Materials

Elle Pure Gold-double knitting (100 g balls): 3 balls each Soft Lilac 200, Salmon 205, Phlox 207 and Cabaret 204.

3.75 mm crochet hook

Button

Needle with big eye

 

Size

135 cm x 100 cm

 

Abbreviations

sl st – slip stitch; c/off – cast off; rep – repeat; dc – double crochet; ch st – chain stitch, tr – treble crochet; lp – loop; sp – space; cl – cluster; foll – following

 

Method

Crochet 48 squares: 8 x 6 squares.

1st square

With 1st colour and 3.75 mm crochet hook, start with 8 ch st, sl st in 1st ch st to form ring.

1st round: 3 ch st (= 1st tr), 23 tr in ring, sl st at top in 3 ch st with foll colour. Cast off 1st colour.

2nd round: 4 ch st, (1 tr in foll tr, 1 ch st) 23 times, sl st in 3rd of 4 ch st.

3rd round: 3 ch st, (skip 1 ch st sp, 1 dc in foll 1 ch st sp, 11 ch st, 1 dc in same sp, 2 ch st, skip 1 ch st sp, 1 dc in foll tr, 2 ch st) 7 times, skip 1 ch st sp, 1 dc in foll sp, 11 ch st, 1 dc in same sp, 2 ch st, skip 1 ch st sp, 1 dc in foll tr, 2 ch st, sl st in 1st ch st from beginning 3 ch st with foll colour. Cast off 2nd colour.

4th round: 1 dc in last sl st, (7 tr in 11 ch st sp, 2 ch st, 7 tr in same 11 ch st sp, skip foll dc and 2 ch st sp, 1 dc in foll dc) 8 times, end with sl st in 1st dc. Cast off 3rd colour.

5th round: With 4th colour, 1 dc in 2 ch st sp (= between the 7 tr groups), [1 ch st, skip 3 tr, 3 tr in foll tr, 1 ch st, skip 6 tr, 3 tr in foll tr, 1 ch st, skip 3 tr, (1 dc, 3 ch st, 1 dc) in 2 ch st sp, 1 ch st, skip 3 tr, 3 tr in foll tr, 2 ch st, skip 6 tr, 3 tr in foll tr, 1 ch st, (1 dc, 3 ch st, 1 dc) in 2 ch st sp] 4 times, replace the last dc with sl st in 1st dc.

6th round: 1 ch st, [1 dc in 1 ch st sp, 1 dc in each of foll 3 tr, 1 dc in 1 ch st sp, 1 dc in each of foll 3 tr, 1 dc in foll 1 ch st sp, 3 dc in 3 ch st sp, (skip foll sp and 3 tr), (5 tr, 7 ch st, 5 tr) in 2 ch st sp, (skip foll 3 tr and sp), 3 dc in foll 3 ch st sp] 4 times, ch st in 1st dc. C/off.

2nd and further squares

Crochet 1st square to the end of round 6. Crochet 2nd square to end of round 5, and then crochet the 2nd square with five pieces against the 1st square as follows: Crochet round 6 to the corner before the 7 ch st; 3 ch st, 1 ch st through the 7 ch sp of 1st square, 3 ch st, 5 tr in 2 ch st sp of 2nd square, crochet 1 ch st through 1st square just after the 5 tr, 3 dc in 3 ch st sp of 2nd square, 1 dc in foll sp, 1 dc in each of foll 3 tr, 1 ch st through sp between the 3 pairs of tr of 1st square, 1 dc in each of foll 3 tr, 1 dc in foll sp, 3 dc in 3 ch st sp of 2nd square, 1 ch st through sp just before 5 tr of 1st square, 5 tr in 2 ch st sp of 2nd square, 3 ch st, 1 ch st through 7 ch st sp of 1st square, 3 ch st, 5 tr in same sp of 2nd square, complete 2nd square according to pattern.

Crochet the 48 squares together. Work in all the loose threads.

Edge around blanket

1st round: With1st colour, crochet 30 dc in each square and 7 dc in each corner. C/off.

2nd round: With 2nd colour, 1 dc in each dc, 3 dc in each corner. C/off.

3rd round: With 3rd colour, same as for round 2. C/off.

4th round: With 4th colour, same as for round 2.

5th round: *1 dc in 2 dc, 2 ch st, skip 1 dc*, rep from * to * all around. C/off.

Edge

1st round: With 1st colour, start with 5 ch st, 2 tr cl in 1st ch st, *4 ch st, turn work clockwise, 2 tr cl at the top in previous cl*, rep from* to * to a length of 70 cm. C/off.

2nd round: Crochet with foll colour along the length; 4 ch st, 1 dc in base of each cl till end, 3 dc at end, * 4 ch st, 1dc in space across from previous row’s dc *, rep from * to * to end. C/off.

3rd round: With foll colour, * 4 ch st, 1 dc in foll dc *, rep from * to * along the length, 4 ch st over corner, * 1 dc in each dc, 4 ch st *, rep from * to * to end. C/off.

4th round: With foll colour, the same as round 3, but crochet 5 ch st over the corner (= the button hole). Sew on the base of the edge between the 3rd and 4th of the 8 rows of squares. Sew the button on the edge.

 

Rose Mandala Workshop

Handskoene 8 (1)

Rose Mandala

The first of my Rose Mandala workshops this year was held in Bloemfontein in the Free State, South Africa. It was one of the most beautiful sunny days en God’s grace and mercy filled the day, which made it the most memorable day of my crochet career.

The whole event was so well organised by Annelise Gelderblom and Eureka Pottas and they did a wonderful job in making the day as perfect and enjoyable as possible. Of course not to mention the lovely atmosphere of 80 women who shared the same passion – crochet!!!!

The venue, food, company, sponsors and the yarn shop added to the success of the day and made it was convenient, comfortable en relaxing.

I thought I will share some of the beautiful photos of the day – all the work of Johan Pottas. Thanks Johan – I still think he is a closet crocheter!

 

And all the concentration of some of the ladies …

The beautiful endresults …of

Annelise Grobler

Annalise Grobler

Hannetjie Nagel and

Hannetjie Nagel

Karin de Villiers and

Karin de Villiers

Riana Botha

13418996_10206875387465393_6004732661255072830_n

Thanks for a lovely day!

The next workshops dates will soon be announced.

Books etc.

Due to the high demand and the current distribution problems experienced, I decided to do some of the selling and distribution myself. However, the books will still be available in large bookstores in South Africa. I thought it might be easier for those having trouble to get to book stores or trouble to get my books to assist you in this regard.
You can order these titles below directly from me. The books are all R 160 each. If you are staying within the borders of South Africa postage is free. If you are outside the borders of South Africa, I will quote you on your order.

Send your orders to acaden@mweb.co.za and I will revert soonest.

Book 1:

Crochet- ideas and patterns for women

Hekel – idees en patrone vir vroue

25 Patterns in each book

The designer, Karen Adendorff, added a bohemian flair to these patterns for a modern and interesting look. The aim is to break away from traditional and old-fashion styles and to establish an international freshness to crochet.
The patterns are designed with locally produced yarn and are further illustrated with photos and diagrams.Crochet – ideas and patterns for women.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Book 2:

Crochet for Cuties

Hekel vir jou Hartedief

Crochet for Cuties are specially compiled for grannies and moms who enjoy doing craftwork and crocheting something different for their little one. The patterns are bright and colourful, synonymous with children and the vibrant world in which they live.
The patterns are designed with more acrylic yarn for the winter patterns because it is wearable (does not itch or scratch) and practical for everyday wash and wear. For the summer clothing, cotton is mostly used for its absorbent qualities. All the yarn used in this book is locally produced and readily available.
All patterns are illustrated for those who find diagrams easier to follow, and all pattern stitches are explained in the front section.
There is something for everyone, from beginner to expert, so that every crochet moment is enjoyable and inspired!

25 Patterns in each book

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My Floral Autumn Shawl

Processed with MOLDIV

(Published in LIG magazine May 2016)

Here is the pattern for those living outside the borders of South Africa and begged me to make this pattern available.

Difficulty: Moderate

What you need:

  • Vinnis Colours Nikkim DK (50 g balls): 1 ball each Raspberry (559), Avocado (530), Natural (500), Turquoise (564) and Pink (521) and 2 balls Khaki (571)
  • 3 mm crochet hook
  • Blunt needle with large eye

Pattern:

Abbreviations and stitch explanations (American crochet terminology):

Picot: 3 ch, ss in same st

Cluster:

  1. Wrap the yarn around the hook and insert the hook in the next stitch.
  2. Do not complete the stitch. There are two loops on the hook.
  3. Crochet the next stitch in the same way. There are three loops on the hook.
  4. Wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through the three loops on the hook.

 

beg – begin

ch – chain stitch

cl – cluster

dc – double crochet stitch

hdc – half double crochet

rep – repeat

rnd – round

sc – single crochet stitch

sp – space

ss – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

Triangles (make 16)

With Raspberry, crochet 5 ch, ss in 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 1 sc in ring, (10 ch, 1 sc) 9 times in ring, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

rdte1 copy

Rnd 2: with Avocado, join in any 10 ch sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in lsp, 5 ch, 1 sc in next 10 ch sp, 9 ch, ss in 7th ch from hook, 3 ch, 1 sc in next 10 ch sp, [5 ch, 1 sc in next 10 ch sp) twice, 9 ch, ss in the 7th ch from hook, 3 ch, 1 sc in next 10 ch sp] twice, 2 ch, 1 dc in beg sc.

rdte2

Rnd 3: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 5 ch, 1 sc in next 5 ch sp, 6 ch, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc) in next 6 ch sp, [6 ch, 1 sc in next 5 ch sp, 5 ch, 1 sc in next 5 ch sp, 6 ch, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc) in next 6 ch sp] twice, 6 ch, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

rdte3

Rnd 4: with Khaki, 6 ch, ss in 3rd ch from hook, 4 dc in 5 ch sp, (1 dc, 1 picot) in next sc, 5 dc in next 6 ch sp, (1 dc, 1 picot) in next sc, (4 dc, 1 picot, 3 dc) in next 6 ch sp, [(1 dc, 1 picot) in next sc), 5 dc in next 6 ch sp, (1 dc, 1 picot) in next sc, 4 dc in next 5 ch sp, (1 dc, 1 picot) in next sc, 5 dc in next 6 ch sp, (1 dc, 1 picot) in next sc, (4 dc, 1 picot, 3 dc) in next 6 ch sp] twice, (1 dc, 1 picot) in next sc, 5 dc in next 6 ch sp, ss in 3rd of beg 6 ch. Fasten off.

rdte4

Join the next triangles in the picots according to the diagram. Join only 4 picots on each side and NOT the picots in the corners.

Sjaal diagram

Join the picots as follows: 2 ch, 1 ch through the corresponding picot of the adjacent triangle, ss in the same st.

Small fill in flowers (make 3) 

vulblom

Crochet the small flowers in the openings between the triangles as follows:

With Avocado, crochet 5 ch, ss in 1st ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: 1 ch, 12 sc in ring, ss in beg sc.

Rnd 2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, (3 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc in next sc) 5 times, 3 ch, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Natural, (1 sc, 1 hdc, make dc just before last 2 loops on hook, insert hook through the corner picot of the triangle and complete the dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in every 3 ch loop. Fasten off.

 

Border 

rand

Rnd 1: Join Turquoise in the picot at the top right triangle with 1 ch, 1 sc in the same sp, *[(5 ch, 1 sc in next picot) 5 times, 1 dc in next picot, 5 ch, 1 sc in next picot] 3 times, (5 ch, 1 sc in next picot) 5 times, 2 ch, 1 sc in the same picot; rep from * to end, ending with 2 ch, ss in beg sc.

Rnd 2: 3 ch, 4 dc in the 1st loop, 5 dc in every 5 ch sp and 1 dc in every sc and in in every dc all around with (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in every corner 2 ch sp, ending with (2 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in the beg 2 ch, ss in top op 3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: with Natural, join the 2 ch corner sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in every dc and (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in every 2 ch corner sp, ending with 1 sc, 2 ch in corner sp, ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: with Avocado join in the 2 ch corner sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 6 ch, skip 2 sc, *(1 sc in the next sc, 6 ch, skip 5 sc) 26 times, 1 sc in the next sc, 6 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in the 2 ch sp, 6 ch, skip 2 sc, rep from * to end, ss in the beg sc. Fasten off.

rdte 4

Rnd 5: with Pink, join in the corner sc, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, 2 ch, 2 dc cl in the same st, 2 ch, *1 sc in the next 6 ch sp, 2 ch, (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in next sc, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off.

rdte 5

Rnd 6: with Rasberry, join in the 2 corner ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, 2 ch, 2 dc cl in the same st, 2 ch, *(1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 2 ch, 2 dc cl in the next 2 ch sp, 2 ch) 27 times, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next 2 ch sp, 2 ch, (2 dc cl, 2 ch, 2 dc cl) in the next 2 ch sp, 2 ch; rep from * to end, ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off.

Rnd 7: with Natural, join in the corner sp, 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st, 2 ch, 1 sc in the same sp, *(3 ch, 1 dc in the next 1 ch sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in nect cl) on each side all around and (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in every 2 ch corner sp, ending with ss in beg sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 8: with Khaki, join in the top right corner sp, 8 ch, 1 sc in the same sp, (8 ch, 1 dc in the next sc) all around with (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in every 2 ch corner sp, ending with ss in 3rd of beg 8 ch.

Rnd 9: ss in sp, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, 2 ch, *(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc, 2 ch) in 8 ch sp, 1 sc in next dc; rep from * till next corner sp, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in 2 ch corner sp, 3 ch, **(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in next 8 ch sp, 6 ch; rep from ** till last sp before corner sp, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the 8 ch sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc) in corner-sp, 3 ch, ***(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the next 8 ch sp, 6 ch; rep from *** to last 8 ch sp, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the loop, 3 ch, ss in the beg st.

From now on, you only work on the two sides and not the top side.

Row 1: 4 ch, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in next sp, *6 ch, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1sc) in next 6 ch sp; rep from * to last sp before corner sp, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc) in the corner sp, 3 ch, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in 3 ch sp, *6 ch, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the next 6 ch sp; rep from * to end, ending with (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the last sp, 3 ch, 1 sc in last sp, turn.

Row 2: 4 ch, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the next sp, *6 ch, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the next sp; rep from * to end, 1 sc in the last sp, turn.

Row 3: 4 ch, *(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the next sp, 6 ch; rep from * to sp before corner sp, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the sp, 3 ch, (2 sc, 2 ch, 2 sc) in corner sp, 3 ch, *(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in the next sp, 6 ch; rep from * to end, ending with 1 sc in last sp, turn.

R0w 4: 4 ch, *(1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in next sp, 6 ch; rep from * to corner sp, (2 sc, 2 ch, 2 sc) in croner sp, **6 ch, (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) in next sp; rep from ** to end, 1 sc in last sp, turn.

4 ks, *(1 kb, 2 ks, 1 kb) in vlg sp, 6 ks; her van * tot by hoek-sp, (2 kb, 2 ks, 2 kb) in hoeksp, **6 ks, (1 kb, 2 ks, 1 kb) in vlg sp; her van ** tot einde, 1 kb in laaste sp, dr.

Row 5: as row 3. Fasten off.

Row 6: with Turquoise, as row 4.

Row 7: as row 3. Fasten off.

Row 8: with Avocado, as row 4.

Row 9: as row 3. Fasten off.

Row 10: with Pink: 3 ch, (1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in 1st sp, 1 sc in next 2 ch sp, *(1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in 6 ch loop, 1 sc in next 2 ch sp; rep from * to sp before corner sp, (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc) in 3 ch sp, (2 sc, 2 ch, 2 sc) in 2 ch sp, (1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in next 3 ch sp, 1 sc in next 2 ch sp, **(1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in 6 ch loop, 1 ch in next 2 ch sp; rep from ** to end, ending with (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc) in 3 ch sp, 1 dc in turning ch, turn. Fasten off.

Row 11: with Raspberry: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same st and in next 3 sts, *(1 sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc, 10 ch, ss in the sam sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc) in next sc, 1 sc in the next 7 sts; rep from * till corner sp, 1 sc in next 3 sts, (1 sc, 10 ch, ss in same sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc), 1 sc in next 3 sts, **(1 sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc) in next sc, 1 sc in next 7 sts; rep from ** to end, ending with (1 sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc, 10 ch, ss in the same sc) in next sc, 1 sc in the next 4 sts. Fasten off.

Darn away all loose ends

 

 

 

Circle skirt

vka20164141625

This skirt is really easy to crochet and it consists of rows of circles joined by double crochet rows. Both rows are increased evenly to form a neat A-shaped skirt.  I first published it in the local Vrouekeur Magazine in 2014. The pattern is available in Afrikaans on http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.

2016-04-20 08.16.46

Difficulty: **

 

What you need:

Elle Premier Natural Cotton DK (50 g balls):

10 balls black (017)

1 ball each Rust (047), Shamrock (007), Leaf (061)

3,75 mm crochet hook

 

Size:

The pattern is designed for a hip size of 95 cm, but can be adjusted for any size. Follow the instruction in the pattern.

 

Abbreviations:

This pattern uses American crochet terminology.

beg – begin

ch – chain stitch

dc – double crochet

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

sp – space

ss – slip stitch

st – stitch

tog – together

 

 

Pattern:

This skirt is worked in rows and stitched together.

 

Start at the top row circles. Join the circles in order to fit around your hips loosely. Follow the pattern. For the pattern described 12 circles are crocheted.

2016-04-20 08.18.16

Circles:

Alternate the centre colour with each cirle

Cricle 1: with 3,75 mm hook and 1st colour, crochet 6 ch, ss in 1st to form a ring.

Round 1: 4 ch (= 1 dc + 1 ch), (1 dc, 1 ch) 11 times, ss with blck in 3rd of beg 4 ch. Fasten 1st colour off. Continue in black.

Round 2: 1 ch, (2 sc in 1 ch sp) 12 times, ss in 1st sc.

Round 3: 6 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), (1 dc in next 2 sc, 3 ch) 11 times, 1 dc in last sc, ss in 3rd of beg 6 ch.

Work away all loose ends.

Circle 2: follow round 1 and 2 of cricle 1 but with second colour and join the two cirles as follows:

6 ch (=1 dc + 3 ch), 1 dc in next 2 sc, 3 ch, 1 dc in next 2 sc, 1 ch, 1 ch through any 3 ch sp of circle 1, 1 ch, 1 dc in next 2 sc of 2nd circle, 1 ch, 1 ch through next 3 ch sp of 1st circle, 1 ch, 1 dc in next 2 sc of 2nd circle, 3 ch, (1 dc in next 2 sc, 3 ch) 7 times, 1 dc in last sc, ss in 3rd of beg 6 ch. Fasten off.

The circles are thus joined at 2 place. Join the rest of the cirles in the same way up to the last circle which is then joined in the same way to the 1st circle.

 

Base of the skirt:

Round 1:

Start at any circle in the 1st 3 ch sp (after joined together): 3 ch in the sp, (1 dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next 3 ch sp) twice, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 1 dc in next 3 ch sp (= 12 dc). Continue in this way and crochet 12 dc in each circle, ending with ss in beg 3 ch.

Round 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in each dc to end, ss in top of 3 ch.

Round 3: 3 ch, 1 dc in next 11 dc, 2 dc tog, *1 dc in next 10 dc, 2 dc tog, rep from * to last 10 dc, 1 dc in next 8 dc, 2 dc tog, ss in top of 3 ch.

Rounds 4-9: 3 ch, 1 dc in every dc, ending with ss in top of 3 ch.

 

Shaping of skirt:

Continue at the bottom of the cirle row as follows:

Round 1: Crochet in the same way as round as skirt base.

Round 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in every dc but increase 6 dc evenly in the round.

Round 3: Same as round 2. (There are 12 stitches increased in the 2 rounds). Fasten off.

Crochet another strip of circles together but with one circle more as the previous strip.

Crochet the 3 rounds dc for the bottom section of the skirt (again 12 dc more).

Pin the strip to the 3rd round dc with right sides together and stitch together.

Continue to crochet a strip circles with one circle more than the previous circle strip and 3 rounds dc (with 12 dc more) and stitch them together.

Continue until the desired length. Do not cut the yarn, but continue with edging.

 

Edge:

3 ch, (2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in the same st, *skip 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc, skip 2 dc, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in next dc, rep from * to end, ending with ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off.

 

String:

Crochet a chain of ± 1,6 m long, turn.

1 ss in 2nd ch from hook, 1 ss in every ch to end. Fasten off. Work loose ends away and thread the string through the 2 dc round of skirt base.

 

Star Birth Mandala

I know that I am not that active on my blog, but you must forgive me. I am trying to finish all my deadlines in time before the next projects stream in and I have to finish everything with only the mornings available to me. Quite hectic, but that’s life with kids and making a living.  I would love to make more time to create free projects for my blog and also patterns that resembles my spirit more. But anyway…I am not complaining, I have a wonderful job!

As you will remember from my December holiday projects, I completed a Mandala on my way back home and I promised to publish the project in due course. Well the pattern is now available on

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/star-birth-mandala

final2This pattern is very special to me as it resembles a turning point in my crochet approach but also because I was at that time free from deadlines – so it gave me time to play around and me more creative.

I do not believe in New Year’s resolutions, but I knew then that I will never again do the same old boring stuff I did for so many years. My creativity reached a turning point and it was a wonderful fresh start to a new year – a creative birth.

The colours are vibrant and I used overlay crochet for a rich and interesting surface pattern. It looks as if the star jumps out of design.

The pattern has step by step photos and the colour choice and yarn choice were simply what I had available in the car. It turns out to be an excellent combination!

I made a cushion with this design and it is now my pride and joy in my living room.

I have to add the beautiful earthy colour variations my mom did with this pattern. She did it in Elle premier Cotton DK, which makes this pattern slightly larger in size.

SUMMER HAT

hoed

Wear this colourful hat during your fun filled summer days. Pattern in Afrikaans on http://www.Vrouekeur.co.za.

 

Difficulty:**

 

What you need:

Vinnis Colours Bambi Cotton DK (50 g balls): 3 balls Wintermint and 2 balls Candypink

Vinnis Colours Nikkim Bamboo DK (50 g balls): 1 ball Purple Pink

4 mm crochet hook

 

Fits normal head size

 

Abbreviations:

This pattern uses American crochet terminology

beg – begin

ch – chain stitch

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double crochet

rep – repeat

sc – single crochet

sp – space

ss – slip stitch

st – stitch

 

Pattern:

Crown

With Wintermint and 4 mm hook, crochet 4 ch, ss in 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: 1 ch, 8 sc in ring, ss in 1st sc.

Round 2: 1 ch, 2 sc in every sc, ss = 16 sc.

Round 3: 1 ch, *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 24 sc.

Round 4: with Purple Pink, 1 ch, *1 sc (twice), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 32 sc.

Round 5: with Candypink, 1 ch, *1 sc (3 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 40 sc.

Round 6: 1 ch, *1 sc (4 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 48 sc.

Round 7: with Wintermint, 1 ch, *1 sc (5 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 56 sc.

Round 8: 1 ch, *1 sc (6 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 64 sc.

Round 9: 1 ch, *1 sc (7 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 72 sc.

Round 10: with Purple Pink, 1 ch, *1 sc (8 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 80 sc.

Round 11: with Candypink, 1 ch, *1 sc (9 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 88 sc.

Round 12: 1 ch, *1 sc (10 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 96 sc.

Round 13: with Wintermint, 1 ch, *1 sc (11 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 104 sc.

Round 14: 1 ch, *1 sc (12 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 112 sc.

Round 15: 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc to end, ss. Fasten off.

 

Squares

With Purple Pink and 4 mm hook, crochet 6 ch, ss in 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: 1 ch, 12 sc in ring, ss in 1st sc.

Round 2: 1 sc, *3 ch, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in 3rd sc from previous round, rep from *to end, ss.

Round 3: 1 ch, (1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in every 3 ch sp to end, ss.

Round 4: work at the back of the flower, with Candypink, join with sc in 2nd dc of petal, *4 ch, 1 sc in 2nd petal, rep from * to end, ss.

Round 5: (1 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in every 4 ch sp to end. Fasten off.

Round 6: carry on in the same st with Wintermint and crochet 6 ch, 1 dc in the same st, *4 ch, 1 sc in 3rd dc of next petal, 4 ch, 1 dc in sc between two petals, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st, rep from * to end, ss in 3rd of beg 6 ch.

Round 7: 3 ch, 3 dc in 3 ch sp, *3 ch, 4 dc in the same ch sp, 2 sc in 4 ch sp, 2 ch in next 4 ch sp, 4 dc in next 3 ch sp, rep from * to end, ss.

Round 8: 1 sc in every st to end. Fasten off.

 

Darn away all loose ends of squares and crown. Join the squares (wrong side facing each other) with sc (in back loop of sc of the front square and front loop of sc of back square) in every st to form a circle. Pin the circle to the crown section and crochet in the same way with sc in every st.

 

Brim

With Wintermint and 4 mm hook, pick up 112 sc at the lower edge of hat, ss.

Round 16: 1 sc in every sc.

Round 17: 1 ch, *1 sc (13 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 120 sc.

Round 18: with Purple Pink, 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 19: with Candypink, 1 ch, *1 sc (14 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 128 sc.

Round 20: 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 21: with Wintermint, 1 ch, *1 sc (15 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 136 sc.

Round 22: 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 23: 1 ch, *1 sc (16 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 144 sc.

Round 24: 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 25: with Purple Pink, 1 ch, *1 sc (17 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 152 sc.

Round 26: with Candypink, 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 27: 1 ch, *1 sc (18 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 160 sc.

Round 28: with Wintermint, 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 29: 1 ch, *1 sc (19 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 168 sc.

Round 30: 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 31: 1 ch, *1 sc (20 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 176 sc.

Round 32: with Purple pink, 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss.

Round 33: with Candypink, *1 sc (21 times), 2 sc in next sc, rep from * to end, ss = 184 sc.

Round 34: 1 ch, 1 sc in every sc, ss. Do not fasten off.

 

Edge

Continue with Candypink:

Round 35: 3 ch, 4 dc in the same st, *skip 2 sts, 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc in the same st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in the same sts, rep from * to end. Fasten off. Darn away loose ends.