Beginner Lessons : how to be left-handed and crochet the ‘right'(-handed) way – week 2

This week I will show you the basic stitches. From here on you will be able to do a lot of  stitch patterns and more fancy stitches by using these basic stitches.  In the next lesson I will show you the basics of rounds. 

Basic stitches (working in ROWS)

Please watch and practise with the videos with each stitch in order to see how the right-hand technique is used and use the photos to assist you in how the stitch is made.

Below are the symbols of the basic stitches explained in this lesson as it appears on crochet diagrams.

simbole vir boekejol

The slip stitch (ss) 

Click here to watch the video.

The slip stitch does not have height, but is more a utility stitch mostly used to combine rounds.

  1. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the next chain of the first chain from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.
  2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
  3. Draw the yarn through both loops while one loop stays on the hook.

glipsteek 1jpg

glipsteek 2

Single crochet stitch (sc) 

Click here to watch the video.

The single crochet stitch is the shortest stitch.

  1. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 2nd chain (in order to have the height of 1 chain, but it DOES not count as the first stitch) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

kortbeen 1 kortbeen 2

2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

3. Pull the yarn through the same opening,  leaving 2 loops on the hook.

4. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

5. Draw the yarn through both loops on the hook while one loop stays on the hook.

kortbeen 3 kortbeen laaste

When doing the next row, make 1 chain stitch and turn the work.

Make 1st single crochet in the first opening below both the upper loops.

ALL the single crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

 

Half double crochet (hdc) 

Click here to watch the video.

  1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

hlb1

Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 3rd chain (in order to have the height of 2 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

2. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

3. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 3 loops on the hook.

4. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

hlb2 hlb3

Draw the yarn through all three loops on the hook while one loop stays on the hook.

When doing the next row, make 2 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st half double crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st half double crochet stitch.

 ALL the half double crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

 

Double crochet (dc) 

Click here to watch the video.

  1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
  2. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 4th chain (in order to have the height of 3 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

lb1a

3. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

4. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 3 loops on the hook.

5. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

6. Draw the yarn through two loops on the hook.

lb2

7. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

8. Draw the yarn through last two loops on the hook.

lb 3 lb4

When doing the next row, make 3 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st double crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st double crochet stitch.

 ALL the double crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

Treble crochet (tr)

Click here to watch the video.

  1. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.
  2. Insert the hook from the front to the back in the 5th chain (in order to have the height of 4 chains, and it counts as the first stitch of the row) from hook just below the upper loop in the small opening visible.

dsl1a

3. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

4. Pull the yarn through the same opening, leaving 4 loops on the hook.

5. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

6. Draw the yarn through two loops while 2 loops stay on the hook.

dsl2

7. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

8. Draw the yarn through next two loops on the hook.

dsl3

9. Wrap the yarn from the back to the front over the hook.

10. Draw the yarn through last two loops on the hook.

When doing the next row, make 4 chain stitches and turn the work.

Make 1st treble crochet in the second opening below both the upper loops. The turning chains counts as the 1st treble crochet stitch.

ALL the treble crochet stitches from now on are made below both the upper loops unless the pattern states otherwise.

For the larger stitches, the stitch pattern repeats in the same relationships.

You can also refer to my books for more complete step by steps of all the stitches, fancy stitches and patterns as well as techniques.

 

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Moroccan Square Project Borders

After you have finished joining your squares you might run into trouble finding a suitable border for the finished project as the sides of each square has 29 stitches.

The best way to resolve this is to create a basic loop border from which you can elaborate further or leave it simple as it is. I have given two variations on the simple loop border. It is however a challenge to write these borders clear and understandable enough to follow, but hopefully the photo’s will clearly illustrate the pattern. I basically explained the basic pattern that repeats itself on all the sides as well as the corner pattern.

Abbreviations (American Terminology):

beg = begin, ch = chain, cl = cluster, dc = double crochet, rep = repeat, rnd = round, sc = single crochet, sp = space, ss = slip stitch, st = stitch

The simple loop border

IMG_4223

Start at the top right corner space of top right square:

Base rnd 1: 1 ch, *(1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc) in the sp, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 14 times, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next corner sp of the same square, 1 ch, **1 sc in the corner sp of the next square, (1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc in the next st) 14 times, 1 ch, 1 sc in the next corner sp of the same square, 1 ch; rep from ** up to the last corner space of the squares and rep from * again for the next side and the other 2 sides, ss in the beg-sc.

Loop rnd 2: ss into the 1 ch-sp, *(1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the corner sp, (3 ch, skip 1 ch-sp, 1 sc in the next ch-sp) up to the last last sp before corner sp, 3 ch, rep from * to end, ss in the beg-sc.

Rnd 3: 1 ch, (3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc) in every corner sp and 4 sc in every other 3 ch sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Delicate border

 IMG_4219

Follow the simple loop pattern for rnd 1 and 2.

Rnd 3: ss into the corner 3 ch-sp, 7 ch, 1 dc in the same sp, (1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc) in every 3 ch-sp and (1 dc, 4 ch, 1 dc) in every corner ch-sp to end, ss in 3rd of beg-7 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the corner 4 ch-sp, 1 ch, [(1 sc, 3 ch) 3 times, 1 sc] in the same sp, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in every 2 ch-sp and [(1 sc, 3 ch) 3 times, 1 sc] in every 4 ch-corner sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Broad border (for blankets, etc)

 IMG_4220

Follow the simple loop pattern for rnd 1 and 2.

 

Rnd 3: ss into the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch, (1 dc, 4 ch, 2 dc-cl) in the same sp, (2 dc-cl, 2 ch, 2 dc-cl) in every 3 ch-sp and (2 dc-cl, 4 ch, 2 dc-cl) in every corner-sp to end, ss in top of beg-3 ch.

Rnd 4: ss into the 4 ch-corner sp, 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in the same sp, *3 ch, 1 sc in sp between next 2 cl, **3 ch, skip 2 ch-sp, 1 sc in sp between next 2 cl; rep from ** up to the coner sp, 3 ch and (1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc) in 4 ch-corner sp, rep from * for the other sides, ss in beg-sc.

Rnd 5: ss into the 3 ch-corner sp, 1 ch, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in the same sp, (2 sc, 3 ch, 2 sc) in every ch-sp to end, ss in beg-sc.

Moroccan Square #6

At first glance, the square looks a little bit more challenging than the previous squares. The only reason for this is that you work stitches in front and at the back of the rounds. At the end it forms a network of colour and layers. I also used front post stitches and clusters. By following the diagram, it will be really easy to do.

TIP: the square tends to be larger than the other squares – change to a slightly smaller hook if it is the case.

Click on link for free pattern:

The Afrikaans is also available on www.vrouekeur.co.za.

blok 6fin

Moroccan Square #5

blok-5-fin

The combination of open spaces works well with the use of puff stitches and clusters. The centre four loop flower or motif is a main feature of most of the moroccan tiles. Instead of filling up the leaves of the flower, I tried to leave it open to make cross but also to link up with the lace work of rounds 8-10.

Click on the link for the free pattern:

The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on the same website.

Moroccan square #3

This is by far my favourite square with a dainty lacy look. The lacy effect is due to the chains that are used throughout the patten with lots of open spaces. In this square the centre flower motif is formed by working at the back of the stitches by folding the previous round to the front and thus creating layered work.

Follow the link for the free pattern:

http://www.vrouekeur.co.za/english/english-patterns/moroccan-crochet-square-3

The pattern is also available in Afrikaans on the same website http://www.vrouekeur.co.za.